Saturday, 30 June 2018

Cropped Kalle Shirt in Vintage Fabric

I finally made the Closet Case Kalle! I've wanted to make this for ages but was put off as it came out after I'd already treated myself to the Deer and Doe Melilot, which is very similar but a bit more slim-cut and has fewer variations. I wasn't sure if I definitely needed space in my wardrobe for both, and even attempted to hack a dress version of the Melilot inspired by the Kalle.

In the end I justified having both by asking my brother to get me one as a present. Funny how we give ourselves these self-imposed stumbling blocks sometimes, isn't it? This is the cropped version of the Kalle with band collar, concealed button band, and no pockets. I cut one pocket, but decided against it after playing with placement.

This was quite an enjoyable sew and looks fun in this fabric - some gifted medium-weight vintage cotton that is perhaps a bit on the stiff side but means the drama of the shape is emphasised. I'm keen to try it again in a fabric with more drape - I can see myself making all versions!

The one thing I struggled with was making up the concealed button band - I had to have a couple of goes and it looks a little messy on the inside! I think it's not as clear as it could be that when you're making the buttonholes you go through two layers of fabric, not just where you've made the markings. Obvious to some I'm sure, but not me...

I used the ugliest buttons I could find in my stash as I knew they'd be functional only, although they're slightly bigger than called for so distort the band a little bit and meant I had to make the buttonholes a bit bigger after I initially sewed them. I found a plain white button for the collar stand that I think blends in with the colours of the print (no-one need ever know how mismatched the rest are!).

My band collar I think doesn't look quite as tall as I expected - I don't know if I accidentally used the wrong seam allowance or something, but everything else seems to have lined up nicely so I'm not sure. It also seems like it might be a bit loose - not sure if I should size down for a closer fit on my scrawny neck? I definitely need to work on improving the buttonholes I make in my collar stands - they always end up being really messy!

There's a lot to love with this pattern and I'm keen to make all the variations - especially now it's warm here in the UK so I can make the most of the loose fit. I want to try a shirt collared dress version next and have some lovely navy cupro for it, but am a bit worried about the looseness around the neck - perhaps I should size down in that area then grade up from the bust down? Fitting experts do chip in!

FYI I'm wearing the Kalle here with my first denim pair of Ginger Jeans! I'd not worn these for a while as I made them with a cheap zip that kept coming undone whenever I sat down, but a little while ago I bit the bullet, ripped out the waistband and redid the fly with a new zip. It was a fair bit of work, but it's never a bad thing to get a bit more practice putting zips in, and now I've rescued the jeans and can get a lot more wear out of them! They're still not perfect; I think the top edge of the jeans got stretched out in handling so there's a little bit of gathering when putting the waistband back on, but it's not too noticeable.

Have you rescued any makes recently, or given in to a pattern desire? I've just got my other brother to get me some belated gifts of the Persephone pants (which I was holding back on because I have the Landers but still wanted) and the Terra Pants. So many good things to make! Hope I find the time for it all.

NorseOtter xx

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