I've finished my second pair of Ginger jeans and been wearing them a bit this week to see how I feel about them. This time I made the high-waisted version View B in some 2% elastane black cotton twill that I bought on eBay. I made straight size 12 but after the baste-fit decided to make up the back seam and yoke seam with a 3/8" seam allowance to allow a little more room for my rear as the back waistband was pulling down a bit. This worked out OK, but I forgot that making that addition would increase the length of the back legs, so I had a fair bit of easing to do when making up the side seams. Next time I will draft a slightly longer back crotch curve and taper the sides so as to avoid this again!
Fitwise I'm not quite sure about how flattering they are. I made up the pocket stay - as I bought the earlier version of the pattern I had to draft it myself but it wasn't too difficult following the tutorial in the sewalong here. As my round belly is a bit of a problem area for me I was eager for it to be sucked in, but I feel like maybe the woven pocket stay slightly distorts the overlying stretchy jeans fabric? There is a bit of pulling from the fly to the side seams which I don't think is caused by needing more width at the hips- if anything I might even slim that bit down next time as I feel a bit of negative ease would be more flattering in that area. Would it be better to draft a stay with a little stretch, or does that negate the point of the stay?!
|My self-drafted pocket stay- although should have added a seam to create a separate pocket section|
I was so excited about having these as the trousers I could pair with my vintage-style cropped jumpers, but feel like after a day's wear the waistband does crease and the area around the stomach, rear, and hips expands a bit making me feel even more bulbous in my rotund regions. Perhaps my fabric has too much stretch, or not very decent recovery?
It was £5.99 a metre so on the cheapish side. I originally interfaced the waistband facing, but for some reason tried to attach this direct to the top of the jeans (instead of the waistband side, duh) when baste-fitting and of course there was far too much fabric at the top of the jeans to gather into the rigid waistband. However, even after discarding the interfacing for the final version of the waistband I feel like I had to stretch the front right side a lot to line up the waistband with the top of the front leg of the jeans below. There was initially a little gathering and I had to restitch- this is mostly gone now but looks less than totally professional. It's weird that it's so much more on one side than the other- I'll watch for this in my next pair in case it was my mistake. There are so many processes to go through it's easy to make one or two.
Some obligatory bum shots. I don't think my pocket placement is the most flattering, and I think some negative ease might create a smoother hip line.
|Coin pocket on wrong hip (and slightly small buttonhole!)|
- Drafted my own pocket stay in woven mediumweight cotton (same as for my Vestido de los Muertos)
- Made my waistband and facing both in stretch denim (only interfacing the button and buttonhole areas)
- Sewed the yoke and back seams at 3/8" for a little more booty room (with mixed success, will do a more sophisticated modification next time)
- I've also realised I sized up to to the 12 as I'm a little over the measurements for 10. Perhaps this is why the area around the hips doesn't look as good as it could? Maybe next time I'll size down in that area but make sure to make the necessary rear adjustments.
|Not too shabby topstitching on the back pocket, but a bit of gathering at the side seams visible|
|My fly front! My machine struggled with the bar tacks,|
but otherwise a decent effr
|My corduroy pair of Ginger Jeans in View A, worn threadbare by my saddle|
Now trying to speed through the rest of my sewing plans for the year and hopefully get another #vintagepledge make under my belt. No gift sewing for me this December though, it was too much last year! How's your end of year sewing going?