Art Teacher Chic Day Dress: Isca Shirtdress

*Disclaimer: I am not an art teacher. 

Hi everyone,

It's been a while! I notice that a few of the bloggers I follow have cited 'Slow January' as a reason they haven't been posting much and I am on board with that.

I was away for most of December visiting friends and family in Canada and the US (my first Christmas abroad!) and have been taking January easy to recalibrate after the all the travel, hectic social schedule, and rich food and drink. I missed sewing a lot and was desperate to get back into it when we arrived back in the UK, but also felt down on my body image after all the indulgence of the weeks abroad. It's taken a while to feel motivated to make something for myself.

This is the Isca Shirtdress by Marilla Walker, made in Seasalt fabric I purchased at their shop in Lewes when out antiquing with my mum last Autumn (on a side note she's not impressed with how many of the old treasure troves have been converted to coffee shops - is that gentrification or genericification?). It's a lovely soft medium-weight cotton twill with this abstract print that I wasn't sure I could carry off (much less match up) but for the most part I think I managed the pattern placement well. There is a little mirroring on one of the side seams, but otherwise I think I did well.

The fabric makes this dress perfect for about 75% of English weather as it's warm enough for Winter, but the dress is loose enough to stay cool in for the (slightly) warmer days of Spring and Autumn. I'm wearing it at the moment a lot with thick tights and a thermal t-shirt underneath. My challenge with this fabric (aside from the print) was that it was a little bulky for gathering.

The instructions called for one line of gathering stitches on the skirt pieces and I wish I'd done my usual three as this might have made the thicker fabric easier to gather evenly and hold their place - as it was I spent ages distributing the fabric and pinning, only for it all to get crushed into odd pleats by the presser foot. I wasn't bothered enough by it to redo it though. This was the only instruction I slightly disagree with and may just be due to fabric choice - the other steps are excellent. 

I actually had the bodice of this dress finished back in late November, intending to take it away with me, but unfortunately my work schedule was so busy beforehand I never had a chance to finish, so it languished with finished sleeves pinned to the armholes on my mannequin for weeks before I summoned the forces to get on with it.

I'm really glad I did because actually this is the perfect dress to wear when you're feeling less body confident as it skims nicely but still has enough structure at the shoulders to look put together and neat. I've worn it loads since I finished it and find the roomy pockets so useful! I wasn't convinced they'd suit me at first but I'm won over.

The only changes I made were to make a 2.5cm FBA following the excellent fitting alteration instructions (I would never have figured out how to do it with those seamlines on my own!) and to cut 25cm off the hem to make it a more playful length. Next time I think I might leave it a smidgen longer at it's quite short at the back when I sit down! I could probably tweak the seams at upper bust to make it a closer fit at the shoulders too.

I would definitely recommend this pattern and can see myself making more of these - I love the easy breezy vibe contrasted with the smart collar and would love to try colour blocking or playing with stripes to highlight the diagonal seamlines more. I'm surprised this dress hasn't had more love on the blogosphere/ instasphere as it's great, and in this shorter length looks quite similar to the Deer and Doe Myosotis dress that was a huge hit for many sewists last year - except personally I find it a more unique and practical design. I might take inspiration and try it with a mandarin collar someday though!

I leave you with this close-up of my mug which is intended to show how well my earrings (if you can spot them!) match the print. The buttons are from my stash inherited from my boyfriend's grandma - I actually had a choice of three colourways, and can't see myself needing to go shopping for buttons any time soon!

Here's to more blogging soon - I have a backlog of things I made last year that I need to find the time and daylight to get photos of. I'm happily wearing them all though so at least when they make it up I'll be able to give a comprehensive review!

NorseOtter xx