Hi everyone!
Sorry for the puns,
I just can't help myself. I'm on a bit of a shirring drive at the
moment, after making my Staple Dress I was just working through a
bodice muslin for Gertie's Shirtwaist Dress when I decided to drop
everything and make this. This is the Simple Sew Amelia Tea Dress
from Love Sewing Magazine.
I bought the magazine on a whim too before boarding a long flight, not really that bothered by making any of the
patterns (the sample made up in hot pink satin for this dress is truly
hideous. I'm sorry but it's true). The free gift of thread snips have come in very handy for this
make, keeping all the ends of my shirring rows neat, and actually I
am rather tempted to add the gored skirt pattern, also from the
magazine, to my growing list of things to make...
I cut the size 14
for this based on the finished garment measurements, which is all the
pattern envelope gives you. I think I judged pretty well, although if
I was being a perfectionist I probably could have cut a smaller size
and done an FBA, and in this size a swayback adjustment would have
been good too. As it was, I decided the week before my friend's
wedding that I hated all my wedding-appropriate attire and wanted to
make something new. A quick and easy, pretty yet modest dress
was exactly what was called for.
This fabric was
bought at my last Goldhawk Road trip from upstairs at Classic
Textiles – I think I bought about 2 m for around £5-6 in total,
intending to make this into the Colette Pastille dress which I ended
up going all gingham over. I was drawn to the delicate floral pattern
but was worried in the wrong dress it might end up looking a bit
frumpy. This pairing of pattern and fabric seems very classic, if a
bit safe, to me, but it worked!
The main problem I
ran into was that the pattern called for 60” wide fabric, and this
was 54”. I thought I could wing it, but after completely ignoring
the cutting layout and getting stuck in with my front skirt first, I
realised it wasn't going to work. There was a reason they called for
60” wide fabric with the flare of that skirt! Anyway, with a bit of
headscratching I managed to get the front and back bodice pieces cut
out correctly, squeezed the short sleeves (I had initially wanted the
longer version, but beggars can't be choosers) on the bias onto a
stupid triangle scrap I'd ended up with due to inefficient cutting.
They're meant to be cut on the straight grain, but actually the print
seems to match up better this way. I did however have to shorten (by
about 2”) and narrow the back skirt pieces (making sure to make the
same adjustment to the front skirt after the fact), and cut them in
opposite directions on the cross-grain to fit them onto what was
left! The eagle-eyed among you may be able to see that the paler flowers are facing different ways,
but thankfully I think this print was remarkably forgiving given the
hash I'd made of it.
While working out
what I could and couldn't get out of my fashion fabric, I
straightaway put my facing pieces to the side, and in the end had to
give up on having a matching shirred waistband portion too. Again,
through serendipity, this blue cotton I bought to be the contrast
collar and binding on the Baby Dress and Knickers I made recently
happened to match the paler flowers, so although it is a much stiffer
fabric I think it works pretty well for the midsection. Because of
the difference in weight I used it for the facings without the
addition of interfacing, as it was beefy enough to do the job on its
own. I was a bit worried the fabric wasn't suitable for the waistband
as my shirring didn't seem to be gathering up as nicely as it has on
previous makes, but thanks to a tip from the magazine a blast of
steam from the iron shrunk it down like magic.
I did hit on a
couple of further minor snags – one was I didn't have a matching
zip in my stash. I nipped out at lunch from work to buy one in the
local nice sewing shop – and balked when they asked for £4 for it!
I out it back pronto and headed to the market nearby and bought one
that was actually closer to the correct length and a better match for
my thread for £1.50. However, I did wonder if it was the zip of
hubris when I managed to fully mangle it that night. I managed to get
it out of alignment when I accidentally caught some of my stitches
too close to the teeth and then gave a frustrated yank to try and
free it up when it got stuck! I had to unpick and bin it, but the
next day I went back to the market and the chap on the stall gave me
another one for 50p. So still cheaper than the shop, and the second
one was the charm!
And, another
confession. I think I put the sleeves on backwards. They kind of
work, but the shoulder doesn't quite sit right. When trying to insert
them as usual with the double snip matching the marking on the back
bodice, none of the other notches would align, and I couldn't work
out what was meant to be happening. So, I swapped my sleeves with the
usual back markings to the front and all the other marks aligned
fine, so I went with it. I don't really know what happened, whether
it's a pattern mistake or something that happened in the almighty
mess of cutting my pattern pieces, but if I have another go I'll
definitely look out for it. However, as my dress form shows-
sleeveless might be a nice way to go for future versions.
So, although this
was a bit of a hatchet job with a few frustrations on the way (as
sewing to a deadline without a careful plan beforehand always seems
to lead to), I actually think this dress turned out pretty well and
I'm looking forward to having an occasion to wear it again. It got
lots of compliments at the wedding I wore it to, kept me cool during
a hot day out in the sun, allowed room for eating as much as I wanted
and was great for dancing. Even after narrowing the skirt a tad there
was still plenty of flare – and even a few near-Marilyn moments
when the breeze picked it up!
Have you ever sewn
occasion wear to a deadline? Would you do it again?!
Now, on to that
shirtdress I've neglected, before the summer leaves us...
NorseOtter xx
Well, despite the eventful sewing - sounds like me! - it looks lovely, and great for a wedding. I can see it with a little pale blue jacket to match the waistband. One of my first makes a couple of years ago was a dress to wear to a wedding. I made the Date Night dress, April Rhodes I think. It's such a simple sew even I couldn't go wrong and I was pleased with the result. I still haven't made the cardigan I intended to go with it, though - maybe before this summer is out...? Jen
ReplyDeleteThanks Jen! Making a matching outfit is next-level sewing, definitely something to aim for. I haven't yet tackled sewing a jacket, but a cardigan would be a useful thing to have and hopefully more forgiving in the fit.
ReplyDelete