tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57708806608371198972024-03-18T03:04:31.795+00:00NorseOtterVintage-inspired sewing NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.comBlogger118125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-43626923770523066562020-12-19T18:21:00.001+00:002020-12-19T18:24:15.021+00:00Fibre Mood Carmella Jumpsuit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik7gVaTuYNsMf2xcxAk01rNTvw55xLKvK17v4eDNB3r5jV0ox1FrUoFDSFbczu8oPgvhjez8yB-KY00fpnIbxM9mEMJMRpGr2KeLn0038gFC4TOaioa6Uv9mDHhivSLj1LJh_a16-7_NiX/s3648/6593B91D-061A-486E-A884-62A9C00B2734.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik7gVaTuYNsMf2xcxAk01rNTvw55xLKvK17v4eDNB3r5jV0ox1FrUoFDSFbczu8oPgvhjez8yB-KY00fpnIbxM9mEMJMRpGr2KeLn0038gFC4TOaioa6Uv9mDHhivSLj1LJh_a16-7_NiX/w480-h640/6593B91D-061A-486E-A884-62A9C00B2734.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbgyDZ_TENCwTB6z8rTl3r-iVpF8xkeHC4b4N29BH6dmDTiPyPeau0Y5YnQr3KA7_hNZpu-oOMwxpveA83_eXNeVINviK_GMd2CXhqXamoGmBfN5CauUkxGzhT59gSqqnymY3UJ3wjWWQ/s3648/BDD5A2DF-E253-4A85-B0F1-F88C579C7D94.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbgyDZ_TENCwTB6z8rTl3r-iVpF8xkeHC4b4N29BH6dmDTiPyPeau0Y5YnQr3KA7_hNZpu-oOMwxpveA83_eXNeVINviK_GMd2CXhqXamoGmBfN5CauUkxGzhT59gSqqnymY3UJ3wjWWQ/w300-h400/BDD5A2DF-E253-4A85-B0F1-F88C579C7D94.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA0L8iRWGwU6IrG_LxybW1T7nIi6qaXMVfdaXZD71BmCDffNJdko_M3BJH_gGGdAFnLi0s08mNpXKQqY0VP4PzbK70_c2OEqHpkxxekO7HqJqcjD3b2uXUsJ-oWuEzInrcq-mYM-2OZT8/s4160/IMG_20200525_165621339.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA0L8iRWGwU6IrG_LxybW1T7nIi6qaXMVfdaXZD71BmCDffNJdko_M3BJH_gGGdAFnLi0s08mNpXKQqY0VP4PzbK70_c2OEqHpkxxekO7HqJqcjD3b2uXUsJ-oWuEzInrcq-mYM-2OZT8/w241-h321/IMG_20200525_165621339.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /> Hello! How is everyone holding up? <div><br /></div><div>According to the timestamp I took the nearly-completed WIP shot on May 25, and it's now late-December! I genuinely thought the being-at-home-all-the-time aspect of lockdown (and the not lockdown but basically still lockdown tier-systems) meant that I'd become more of a regular blogger, but this year has thrown many surprises and hurdles in my path. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4cYspY57XqRS_znaKN49ewRGZW9MjE11G_e3GLa75Y9QFpli_W-OAbEDbzOA_wEtAXaG_IaAm6SBPGMWqNHJHUJt5-cHWSNAKDtJMFmATps8jiPgsFMDMT8TY9KV8_bgVbtLhWzrXnI0/s3648/71386908-3545-4015-8D43-B9C73DDDF2E2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4cYspY57XqRS_znaKN49ewRGZW9MjE11G_e3GLa75Y9QFpli_W-OAbEDbzOA_wEtAXaG_IaAm6SBPGMWqNHJHUJt5-cHWSNAKDtJMFmATps8jiPgsFMDMT8TY9KV8_bgVbtLhWzrXnI0/w300-h400/71386908-3545-4015-8D43-B9C73DDDF2E2.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Anyway, onto the jumpsuit, which is a </span><a href="https://shop.fibremood.com/en/product/315-carmella-jumpsuit-pdf-pattern" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Fibre Mood Carmella</a><span style="text-align: left;">. I bought a batch of 5 Fibre Mood PDF patterns back at the start of the year during a special 5 patterns for €15 deal and sent them off to be printed on A0 and was a bit disappointed when they came back to discover that, even in A0 format parts of the pattern are overlapped and needed tracing off! Very frustrating and a bit disappointing - I expect all the patterns are formatted for the magazine insert and they don't make any changes when making them available as single patterns to the customer, but for the price (which is £6.50 per pattern at non-sale rates) I expect better. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgTH45EA5vSL7Nv7rNF0Z-NMU1XcVzICz5FpY4r9UQ9WUHIRgSGV4Ee7iI2nnWNC3RQ_tH8XcjQrOrx_JnlLcAQ-i5V0LtGrE2edwxMQA2sONL68nTlNrWOGmTZZ7Hxk2-VFXEB4SeOqR/s3648/9254059D-F8C0-48FE-9F8C-1416C331577D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgTH45EA5vSL7Nv7rNF0Z-NMU1XcVzICz5FpY4r9UQ9WUHIRgSGV4Ee7iI2nnWNC3RQ_tH8XcjQrOrx_JnlLcAQ-i5V0LtGrE2edwxMQA2sONL68nTlNrWOGmTZZ7Hxk2-VFXEB4SeOqR/w300-h400/9254059D-F8C0-48FE-9F8C-1416C331577D.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><p>As it was quite a while ago I don't remember having any issues with the instructions, other than the grainline for the binding strip on the sleeve slit being straight of grain when you really need to cut it on the bias. I sort of knew this but still cut it out as instructed, only to have to recut - luckily they're small pieces. I am someone who always follows along even though I've got 6 years of sewing experience under my belt now! My fabric didn't behave perfectly when I was making the front placket so there's a tiny bit of bulk where I misaligned the folds on the inside, but easily fixed with more care and less handling of loose-woven fabric next time! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoYptUXegbXx8_oDgDBZTmmLJYcnrUjuu22Rxjcx0gEI7Ikzlbq20fhAPdrIImfTLbzZNZPQwVbtvRhjB8tRTjtpMNA_SM1IsU0OjYqNPpdchaz6pmOJm4ti5nBAssgXA8FJ6C9kyDw-Y/s3648/2ACD87B2-5BF7-4258-8B8F-165C41015F17.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="3648" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoYptUXegbXx8_oDgDBZTmmLJYcnrUjuu22Rxjcx0gEI7Ikzlbq20fhAPdrIImfTLbzZNZPQwVbtvRhjB8tRTjtpMNA_SM1IsU0OjYqNPpdchaz6pmOJm4ti5nBAssgXA8FJ6C9kyDw-Y/w400-h300/2ACD87B2-5BF7-4258-8B8F-165C41015F17.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_WZtjwIPc-7ieogmgW6VC4PUwAf47YcVBAFqvcn5uixURIiU2VBSgcuUwly8WR6kFO2OdAFT1bL_gTG4-gyVnG4Njy9lQTUuwjlcH49ZhtXkoJaGuNLnKVv02L5EQKF6nU4KwHmzQIumk/s3648/09085EE1-08AD-4539-BEC0-FC4E500CC33F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_WZtjwIPc-7ieogmgW6VC4PUwAf47YcVBAFqvcn5uixURIiU2VBSgcuUwly8WR6kFO2OdAFT1bL_gTG4-gyVnG4Njy9lQTUuwjlcH49ZhtXkoJaGuNLnKVv02L5EQKF6nU4KwHmzQIumk/w300-h400/09085EE1-08AD-4539-BEC0-FC4E500CC33F.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkOmx6Bnq9jm3gMduwI_EKUXWbldHGR4Ub6FUFTcE6OTVPVXty20VrAYKbnuUVoAw8AdFo1gOwvZgEi2jyz2OlTPzBCalSnFqMfMnOv1CkE64LMcQaLxjz15RmLIIpLQcH2fu2ksVrcBah/s3648/36307DA6-AA4F-4D81-AA2D-3A2B9D271291.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="3648" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkOmx6Bnq9jm3gMduwI_EKUXWbldHGR4Ub6FUFTcE6OTVPVXty20VrAYKbnuUVoAw8AdFo1gOwvZgEi2jyz2OlTPzBCalSnFqMfMnOv1CkE64LMcQaLxjz15RmLIIpLQcH2fu2ksVrcBah/w400-h300/36307DA6-AA4F-4D81-AA2D-3A2B9D271291.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The only deviation I made was to add these little strips above the pockets, which were inspired by an old military-esque Doc Martens jumper I've had since I was 15 and still wear. I think I cut the belt loops on the fold instead of as a single layer so had twice as much as I needed, and decided to put them to good use as the breast pockets looked a little small and the proportions weren't working on my larger chest. So having this little extra strip not only makes a handy and secure pen holder (I've sewn down sections of it at random intervals to create useful pen-sized/ sunglass arm-size sections) but visually improves the proportions and breaks up my chest a bit more. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgscfoRxjGrqaW0-rC5gX73KNDfj76Mc59QTMQJfrMBCpEe_vt3uYUVff5JFmIa2O3SpxNiCSlAhvw1r7sZ7qk-2d5gV8cGg38XBJ6kv3D9lWB_zAssdYWWAXXl520ssk1i6gYpSyjINyy/s3648/FC28CD73-B5E9-4CC1-9128-876D46849C40.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgscfoRxjGrqaW0-rC5gX73KNDfj76Mc59QTMQJfrMBCpEe_vt3uYUVff5JFmIa2O3SpxNiCSlAhvw1r7sZ7qk-2d5gV8cGg38XBJ6kv3D9lWB_zAssdYWWAXXl520ssk1i6gYpSyjINyy/w300-h400/FC28CD73-B5E9-4CC1-9128-876D46849C40.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><p>On the belt loops, I think I actually placed mine a bit too low for me, especially at centre back, as my belt always dips down in that area. Next time I would lower them a fraction, and also narrow the belt - perhaps in half, as it ends up creased in half anyway from being forced to crumple by the curves of my body. Being an hourglass shape with a belly all my waistbands end up folding in on themselves. I do wear this belted all the time as it's very loose without and I prefer having the definition. I think it looks fine on my shape except the back view - I might consider raising the back crotch next time so that the jumpsuit hugs my booty rather than hangs down from it, because as someone with a sticky-out rear there's a lot of volume in the back leg and the shape gets lost. I get this problem with my bust too, I think I need princess seams for my bottom! </p><p>I sewed up my jumpsuit in olive green linen from Simply Fabrics which has now faded to a lighter greyish-green and softened up due to so much wear! It's a decent match for the jumpsuit but I did trim my collar points a bit too close to the seamline and it's threatening to fray - linen really is a bit too loose-woven not to have a decent amount of seam allowance. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWHrNL9xqP0i4yyo3W2G47xS3HnJ2vuPeAy0dyj-3NJdY_PAux0OF0HsMVhtKuhgPvCm4rY1GtjL5mDM9tB0n7Cqh3_s_SeoZW5mND8Ti5Xij-MEEYGRSRcRpLFC8bY5aIggcEII5cx2g/s3648/D9A18419-0A68-45F9-A4BE-D5550768BF8A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWHrNL9xqP0i4yyo3W2G47xS3HnJ2vuPeAy0dyj-3NJdY_PAux0OF0HsMVhtKuhgPvCm4rY1GtjL5mDM9tB0n7Cqh3_s_SeoZW5mND8Ti5Xij-MEEYGRSRcRpLFC8bY5aIggcEII5cx2g/w300-h400/D9A18419-0A68-45F9-A4BE-D5550768BF8A.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4az9bIyJXKq76a0u3191rFStsQjEYQ2jlrGRoDAG1LZ716t0NJOPuOJghAgrLaduwLTh_cdrjYgfNlYrJK8VY2RT6ovZDgPR_u3pWhFJRaPumau1YDns9kQ1UZJO_Cmr_gsgBZJY02hL7/s3648/C1B5F7E5-3151-4A48-B684-B6701C40A808.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="3648" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4az9bIyJXKq76a0u3191rFStsQjEYQ2jlrGRoDAG1LZ716t0NJOPuOJghAgrLaduwLTh_cdrjYgfNlYrJK8VY2RT6ovZDgPR_u3pWhFJRaPumau1YDns9kQ1UZJO_Cmr_gsgBZJY02hL7/w400-h300/C1B5F7E5-3151-4A48-B684-B6701C40A808.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AnzsYL2zAGEmplwAdSKDVlfFqXmvyWODyP1MjgRgNGiTXPWmaQMZHtHlNjmz4K_0Ei3aFQqqZRhc03pJKysAbi_MSezxEHkxImLUiedpneOPiJAiGIl_kPzUnooxWpAxAE3wu7Zsb6by/s3648/E9524544-7CAF-482B-985C-93B4D3EEDDCF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AnzsYL2zAGEmplwAdSKDVlfFqXmvyWODyP1MjgRgNGiTXPWmaQMZHtHlNjmz4K_0Ei3aFQqqZRhc03pJKysAbi_MSezxEHkxImLUiedpneOPiJAiGIl_kPzUnooxWpAxAE3wu7Zsb6by/w300-h400/E9524544-7CAF-482B-985C-93B4D3EEDDCF.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>As it's quite lightweight it's been a great transitional piece that has seen me through the cooler summer days and into autumn, and now layered up with a polo-neck underneath for winter. Above are a couple of pics of it 'out in the wild' when we were able to take a short getaway to Rye in late August, where the weather was very changeable. I was really tempted to make myself another one for the hotter days this summer with the sleeves left off or, as they're already quite dropped shoulders, adapted into grown-on cuffed sleeves. Maybe I'll still do that next summer.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieMQOz0ehr8uFp6gmnI47Ug8k380cLkUlIkbHk7HiVod7vH1e9Bp7E9SNQD0HXTCOd0VAcKHbA_P3pd7Mt5qEUxH6SfKzPNxKw2vI8aUtGw5mgsE4leD5VmrSfhYFqs1AENs0fVwaNiGxr/s3648/D5C23CDF-6273-4450-8815-7D006BA1F5A6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieMQOz0ehr8uFp6gmnI47Ug8k380cLkUlIkbHk7HiVod7vH1e9Bp7E9SNQD0HXTCOd0VAcKHbA_P3pd7Mt5qEUxH6SfKzPNxKw2vI8aUtGw5mgsE4leD5VmrSfhYFqs1AENs0fVwaNiGxr/w300-h400/D5C23CDF-6273-4450-8815-7D006BA1F5A6.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6wopyfaAPpMFxCml73NEHTKoI-ccp0fzma7xuTC5HhDTzEb4hMWQVAKSGNTI_8ea2IFgyJmr0chEulwALhoktX580epvwdmRjoJpXnytacpJL-6ny81SxvN0L_KnYgxrNaWIE0iq_zTV/s3648/E38C2879-7F63-4FE0-BEE1-2F6B0D8B8A25.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6wopyfaAPpMFxCml73NEHTKoI-ccp0fzma7xuTC5HhDTzEb4hMWQVAKSGNTI_8ea2IFgyJmr0chEulwALhoktX580epvwdmRjoJpXnytacpJL-6ny81SxvN0L_KnYgxrNaWIE0iq_zTV/w300-h400/E38C2879-7F63-4FE0-BEE1-2F6B0D8B8A25.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Would I recommend this pattern? There are so many lovely jumpsuits out there! However if you're after the slightly oversized mechanic's coveralls look (which I quite like, having become more into workwear styles and more comfortable clothes this year) then it's a winner for the price. Just be aware you will need to trace some sections of this PDF! If you're larger-busted I would recommend making the breast pockets a bit bigger. I imagine that this style is unisex too as I couldn't detect any noticeable shaping for breasts and the waist is created with the belt. I don't like the unbelted look on me at all but have included the pics above for science. </p><p>Thanks for reading and I hope you're all safe and well!</p><p>NorseOtter xx</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5QsucIHvGe064xO1NxomUS2lqdybe3vROb8xpYm7iP2zLccxS-kYknJZ2NF_bbIlIqsyi-lee4WZnsslq2DgZ1NGhyVNlKO1sbuAL4gtJnnpuDuTcvm_QnF5s1KJHZkPbC0kngagY7LA/s3648/E72599C0-8B72-45E9-BFDB-2886DA51F607.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5QsucIHvGe064xO1NxomUS2lqdybe3vROb8xpYm7iP2zLccxS-kYknJZ2NF_bbIlIqsyi-lee4WZnsslq2DgZ1NGhyVNlKO1sbuAL4gtJnnpuDuTcvm_QnF5s1KJHZkPbC0kngagY7LA/w300-h400/E72599C0-8B72-45E9-BFDB-2886DA51F607.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-60169223257687483082020-07-19T15:38:00.002+01:002020-07-19T15:59:01.611+01:00Ubiquitous For a Good Reason: Zadie JumpsuitHello readers,<div><br /></div><div>I drafted the post below just before the killing of George Floyd. It didn't feel right to post something so frivolous when the world was in such pain and it felt urgent that the forces of the internet (or at least the bubble I participate in) was mobilising towards activism, and I didn't want to take up space there. </div><div><br /></div><div>I working on becoming a better ally, and I know that my words are insufficient to address all the work that needs to be done, or to acknowledge all the work that has been done by the very people who are those harmed by systemic racism. I am here to do the research, to listen, broaden my influences, and to put my money where my mouth is (donating to causes such as <a href="https://www.theblackcurriculum.com/">The Black Curriculum</a>, <a href="https://uk.gofundme.com/f/the-free-black-university">Free Black Uni,</a> <a href="https://www.blackmindsmatteruk.com/">Black Minds Matter</a>) and to speak up and take action, for the long haul. Black Lives Matter. </div><div><br /></div><div>Thanks for reading so far - if you're keen to read my thoughts on the (rightly) very popular pattern the <a href="https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/zadie-jumpsuit-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Zadie Jumpsuit</a>, the usual sewing content is down below. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtUnJqp6ToJQVJPV4fN5lncpnJHYzptQG1SybtuDFFQHw7DTS1GUQLsQd5j7Wu-aHuaGfpJoQeZVlOlC6bMY2BMbXC6NAensIysb2p_IocGBAz534ENj-VIy9kj6IUsgsb86Jd__o53P_/s2048/20200508102635_IMG_4657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtUnJqp6ToJQVJPV4fN5lncpnJHYzptQG1SybtuDFFQHw7DTS1GUQLsQd5j7Wu-aHuaGfpJoQeZVlOlC6bMY2BMbXC6NAensIysb2p_IocGBAz534ENj-VIy9kj6IUsgsb86Jd__o53P_/w480-h640/20200508102635_IMG_4657.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Yes I have joined the ranks of Zadie-wearers. </div><div>Yes I have joined the ranks of #linenlovers. </div><div><br /></div><div>Am I a cliche? Maybe, but that's fine with me if I can be this comfortable and still feel put-together during lockdown. I have two <a href="https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/zadie-jumpsuit-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Zadie jumpsuits</a>, one made pre-lockdown as part of my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2020/01/new-year-sewing-plans-and-tentative.html">#Sew5EasyPieces</a> plan (a hashtag that never really got the chance to flourish, but I am now finishing up the last of those planned garments and hope to share the pieces I haven't yet blogged soon!). </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOfhnsnAQMCcpc0bAcu0Aez7qfabDfdN-HZ0SmRKqrgHD7Cakz2gT6DOb3tazDFBusnsnXexwTp0n2K0u5YLgcI6oxe52uwaHx0qB4kTKYUaF2ll2I7QILuG4hjLNVX-2ilzk9oy0xpzHk/s3648/AAD929F2-6B6F-422C-861A-1A55EF6679AA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOfhnsnAQMCcpc0bAcu0Aez7qfabDfdN-HZ0SmRKqrgHD7Cakz2gT6DOb3tazDFBusnsnXexwTp0n2K0u5YLgcI6oxe52uwaHx0qB4kTKYUaF2ll2I7QILuG4hjLNVX-2ilzk9oy0xpzHk/w480-h640/AAD929F2-6B6F-422C-861A-1A55EF6679AA.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>My first version is a black 3/4 sleeved version made in a cotton-linen blend from Fabric Godmother for a February getaway to Rome (remember travelling for pleasure?). It was perfect for the trip - apart from the fact that the fabric hadn't quite softened up yet and I got a little bit of thigh chafe due to the dropped crotch seam after a day of exploring the city on foot!! I haven't got around to doing a photoshoot for it (see also; a two-year backlog of other things I haven't blogged yet that no longer seem relevant, eep!) so only have these tourist-in-action shots, and I'm wearing <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2019/03/a-bright-basic-sew-over-it-anna-coat.html">my SOI Anna Coat</a> in all of them, but the sleeves are nice trust me. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTugJqPCv9ZCWULLI8jIFFabJPNaVvgTN6m2oH206Kfad_Mitspz0gcUNqjdz2yS_6Xob_-_UCIUrb1M5riIRVeUG-cao3qNbiq-U3v3T8-BRIv6mmnWzh8HjDxOzG0lKjMAFYoX_9WCsD/s2048/20200508102344_IMG_4629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTugJqPCv9ZCWULLI8jIFFabJPNaVvgTN6m2oH206Kfad_Mitspz0gcUNqjdz2yS_6Xob_-_UCIUrb1M5riIRVeUG-cao3qNbiq-U3v3T8-BRIv6mmnWzh8HjDxOzG0lKjMAFYoX_9WCsD/w480-h640/20200508102344_IMG_4629.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I made a tiny mistake with the seam binding on the first version when I overlocked the full crotch seam before attaching the binding so there's a bit of a clumsy overlap there - but it doesn't show because I tend to tuck the binding in on the pants section of the jumpsuit. On my teal second version I followed the instructions exactly which makes for a neater finish at the centre front of the pants section, but the binding stills looks better folded away in my opinion - in future versions I'm considering adding a little to the CF edges to allow for a hidden binding all the way around. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTWSo7WedHOd6Ppz-3YZJOx4nDHOW117rK2i2G8MZNlS4AnKN_cOl57v0wjL237FHOc2TelB87GwNrkb2o67G2sRllZuTrv2e0FeGTvRayau0B6a5RT861vPslkFJn4fSSiee5P24emj6/s2048/20200508102356_IMG_4632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTWSo7WedHOd6Ppz-3YZJOx4nDHOW117rK2i2G8MZNlS4AnKN_cOl57v0wjL237FHOc2TelB87GwNrkb2o67G2sRllZuTrv2e0FeGTvRayau0B6a5RT861vPslkFJn4fSSiee5P24emj6/w480-h640/20200508102356_IMG_4632.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I made both Zadies up in a straight size 14 to allow for an easy fit as the first was planned for travelling in and the second was made during lockdown and therefore needed to accommodate the working from home lifestyle and potentially expanding body. I mentioned in a previous post that loungewear isn't my thing (overly casual clothes really don't suit me) but this is as close as I'm comfortable getting to it. </div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't make any adjustments to the pattern. Other people have shortened the rise which perhaps I might do in future - this definitely does make my bum look like it goes down to the back of my knees when I stand after a period of sitting! And I could probably shorten the bodice a little as the waist ties naturally sit higher than the waist seam when tied up in the most natural position. I will also mention that the cut-on short sleeved version does also give a little peek of side-bra through the arm opening, but I'm not sure whether I could really avoid that. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaEkV4pjUPHLUyA6ZBeoLxKDtOXsvPo3i72icS3mHvjKszbQtjnXcBEKiLQoAwoka59YtaRStFK5w4uf5yeyl7HaqrvIDeN563aq1ql89yToT5BEIGZWRER-4JfO8GanMt3GfVcbkgZU9y/s2048/20200508102453_IMG_4644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaEkV4pjUPHLUyA6ZBeoLxKDtOXsvPo3i72icS3mHvjKszbQtjnXcBEKiLQoAwoka59YtaRStFK5w4uf5yeyl7HaqrvIDeN563aq1ql89yToT5BEIGZWRER-4JfO8GanMt3GfVcbkgZU9y/w480-h640/20200508102453_IMG_4644.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>My second version was made in a fit of feeling like I wanted an easy make as a comfort sew, and when the weather was really starting to warm up so I omitted the sleeves that I'd originally planned. This linen is from Minerva and is 'petrol blue' although it reads more peacock/ teal than I was expecting. I had wanted navy but it was sold out, so this was my next best bet in my impulse purchase and I was hoping it would read more blue. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3p7g1N2w4ldqyRmPj90nPtvG9JPnuTDCtKKlbu37CedMRf9prqI8H7S-bIM4HRsswb4WuKbe_N4X3sXrY_o_3xUnRXmmDjPLBVOS5ZQMwrraGcTnRmVzq4BWhogowiVW2WGMro2PhyphenhyphenhD/s2048/20200508102558_IMG_4648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3p7g1N2w4ldqyRmPj90nPtvG9JPnuTDCtKKlbu37CedMRf9prqI8H7S-bIM4HRsswb4WuKbe_N4X3sXrY_o_3xUnRXmmDjPLBVOS5ZQMwrraGcTnRmVzq4BWhogowiVW2WGMro2PhyphenhyphenhD/w480-h640/20200508102558_IMG_4648.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>This fabric is pretty lovely but boy did it shed fibres all over the shop - my house was covered in a thin layer of teal fuzz for weeks after cutting this and I felt pretty bad to discover quite a lot of it in the catbed - hopefully Lily didn't ingest any of it. So a warning to vacuum your sewing space regularly if you go for this!! Other than that, no dramas in the sewing - I don't strictly need another one of these jumpsuits but if the mood took me I'd happily make one again, as it's an easy sew, easy to wear and pretty versatile. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'll leave you with the back view for information - and if you scroll all the way down a bonus action shot of me throwing a coin in the Trevi fountain (I look very silly!). </div><div><br /></div><div>Hope you're all staying strong and finding ways to stay sane,</div><div><br /></div><div>NorseOtter xx</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnY4n4EBGvTjjpBUtFW3iLfJbdzbIegORsDwOFGCNfFW_BU0cmuCEkEjDWFS3ffgpKvqgW5928L_DZXzbO2vBWOHuAT-X5v1IZQ9So9x2UCodiYyMRRhnFM6xk3DXmrDk31J8vpkpWbP_R/s2048/20200508102646_IMG_4659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnY4n4EBGvTjjpBUtFW3iLfJbdzbIegORsDwOFGCNfFW_BU0cmuCEkEjDWFS3ffgpKvqgW5928L_DZXzbO2vBWOHuAT-X5v1IZQ9So9x2UCodiYyMRRhnFM6xk3DXmrDk31J8vpkpWbP_R/w480-h640/20200508102646_IMG_4659.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLiNC7FYxpCM8sp2zrxNGGLrJoc7GZ_mmzHpiVhRznMtsUMz5eKc690e6zboCWPlitDZ5DWDWPGzQPm0b8esaJ3rmFeG2eAdVO63q_xv0yuX7GQpCtjWq9fiaLmtxsyV5_KnEB0n_Y8_E/s3648/2D63DE80-D3D6-470B-94A2-09A8233D244B.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="2736" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLiNC7FYxpCM8sp2zrxNGGLrJoc7GZ_mmzHpiVhRznMtsUMz5eKc690e6zboCWPlitDZ5DWDWPGzQPm0b8esaJ3rmFeG2eAdVO63q_xv0yuX7GQpCtjWq9fiaLmtxsyV5_KnEB0n_Y8_E/w480-h640/2D63DE80-D3D6-470B-94A2-09A8233D244B.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-75948751628785226912020-05-23T11:56:00.000+01:002020-05-23T11:56:25.385+01:00Another Birthday Negroni in Japanese Cats<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumEVERidDtgaR9_WUXvprei6Z2gw4Ti7aYSEXF8BXEuCFKp84GIcXG7lmo6Z2fJQdYGYdcnQ-FDAToBz8G17OErF-qrMTD9Vu44RCJXkG1WI4q2skVXgZ59Ty36fgRLK36YjypeyNyn3A/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumEVERidDtgaR9_WUXvprei6Z2gw4Ti7aYSEXF8BXEuCFKp84GIcXG7lmo6Z2fJQdYGYdcnQ-FDAToBz8G17OErF-qrMTD9Vu44RCJXkG1WI4q2skVXgZ59Ty36fgRLK36YjypeyNyn3A/w640-h480/20200508101717_IMG_4620.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Hello!<br />
<br />
How is your lockdown going? We're coping OK at Casa NorseOtter - definitely not going hell for leather in the productivity stakes but not completely overwhelmed either. We're lucky enough to both be employed and working from home - so for me my sewing has been very much focused on having a nice calm, mindful activity for the evenings when I have the energy (work is still surprisingly busy!) or the weekends. Definitely not a mask-making factory here - although I suppose I'd better get on it soon. For the time being we're just strictly keeping our distance and staying in.<div><br /></div><div>
My lockdown style is also somewhere in-between - I'm not bothered about doing my make-up but I don't own or have any interest in owning loungewear, so am still getting dressed pretty much as normal but using the staying at home scene as an excuse to indulge myself with all the novelty socks that would normally clash too much to get regular wear. Plus fabulous earrings in lieu of make-up!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8-KtjFE_MdyHstTPzoHjuMP2wy9m2RrChbvI4GovwNXWvgf_QVQK7fsS_-__87MPzXiS-82KNlNzK7EuOSjPSyG4RoZAKVsOtNoifZEYBpAzAnHAbdUTmEeytMcFv6wko5Lv2RVpEj8m/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8-KtjFE_MdyHstTPzoHjuMP2wy9m2RrChbvI4GovwNXWvgf_QVQK7fsS_-__87MPzXiS-82KNlNzK7EuOSjPSyG4RoZAKVsOtNoifZEYBpAzAnHAbdUTmEeytMcFv6wko5Lv2RVpEj8m/w480-h640/20200508101810_IMG_4626.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br />
If you've read through the preamble, thanks for sticking with me so far - I hope you're all doing OK too and managing to stay afloat. Today's sewing project is just a repeat pattern make - the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/negroni" target="_blank">Colette Negroni </a>for my partner's birthday - so no new sewing insights really, other than how comforting I'm finding making repeats of my 'tried and true' patterns, and taking my time over making them well. I've now made this pattern three times for my partner, all birthday makes - see <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/06/popover-colette-negroni-in-linen-plaid.html">2018</a>, and <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2016/05/vlisco-crocs-for-anguss-birthday-negroni.html" target="_blank">2016</a> editions - 2019 seems to be missing a blog post which I need to remedy as that was probably my best version!<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMjYUTdH-e-1LQJV6ramrpF1indp7o1hNy2LEqSPKermHGGhfKXvy1TGix9QSKIb7Mp16XZHKTkfanl_2iS08ueAha5wu9TNfjMMI3It-s1PiXmqyZdoKVBWonzV0-n9a0Hs80-7Kjvyz/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMjYUTdH-e-1LQJV6ramrpF1indp7o1hNy2LEqSPKermHGGhfKXvy1TGix9QSKIb7Mp16XZHKTkfanl_2iS08ueAha5wu9TNfjMMI3It-s1PiXmqyZdoKVBWonzV0-n9a0Hs80-7Kjvyz/w480-h640/20200508101759_IMG_4625.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br />
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There are a couple of things that I didn't manage as well as I could have in this make however - which is that I planned a beautifully pattern matched front, but in my complacency/ distraction accidentally matched to the edge of the seam allowance rather than the centre front, through the button and buttonhole line. This means the pattern is overlapped and two lovely cats get lost! Luckily they're the upside-down part of the print so all is not ruined, but it is annoying as I took my time to make it work but woefully miscalculated!<br />
<br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUrKrimTcqmUhHpulSyITuXayBUtb0NqO1ZMu_Qs2WJNW78eD3D7q0MVqImh0wi1A7qyodcDt-XvtgQbQK3UpgUUoydKXb61wZ7CETDdS2EWiJW8xcxm8lJrhmJYdCHWjyQ0T89LjkHKr/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUrKrimTcqmUhHpulSyITuXayBUtb0NqO1ZMu_Qs2WJNW78eD3D7q0MVqImh0wi1A7qyodcDt-XvtgQbQK3UpgUUoydKXb61wZ7CETDdS2EWiJW8xcxm8lJrhmJYdCHWjyQ0T89LjkHKr/w480-h640/IMG_20200425_143827978.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I also managed an accidental print duplication on the centre of the back yoke and the collar. I was trying to get as much full cat motif on each piece and didn't stop to consider how they'd look once sewn up together. I don't think I'd realised that I'd chosen exactly the same cat for them both either. Next time I'll take my time to place these pieces together to sense-check the flow of the pattern before sewing up, as if I'd done this I probably would have used the other side of the collar, or cut a new one!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlN90A5cxbBt4enzP81x2nWG1-vDioeoueW1irMyD9d5jGdZoLJlWBmE39qmMRpz3z4KeBFz-Y_4gXhhUNekvoOV2xJVsjp9LfL020EOqBHxMuR0DpCP4V5m2rCaCmpc3iTcOXmYjZ5Mth/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlN90A5cxbBt4enzP81x2nWG1-vDioeoueW1irMyD9d5jGdZoLJlWBmE39qmMRpz3z4KeBFz-Y_4gXhhUNekvoOV2xJVsjp9LfL020EOqBHxMuR0DpCP4V5m2rCaCmpc3iTcOXmYjZ5Mth/w480-h640/20200508101740_IMG_4624.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>
Anyway, these visual snafus aside I'm actually quite proud of the sewing on this one. It's a quilting cotton purchased a couple of years ago at Tomato in Tokyo's Nippori Fabric Town and I'm pleased to have used it! I actually have the same print with a more golden/mustard background that I bought for myself and am wondering about the best way to use it for some sickly-sweet twinning! I recently made another twinning outfit that maybe I'll post soon, once I get photos. Why is finding time to get photos still so hard, even in lockdown?</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9WDv2i0tY3lU0gB9uS5YWDiepZh8bSdX-WPPwa0gvOoHPfhpB_w9HKFFDQMArpedTVYaAUUP-AF0yLy-d4irgTcX-Oqv0cJwiBYrVh9YPB3ZY41OMMvT6Vc7YtVY9hijMD7_Cb5LMJs3/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9WDv2i0tY3lU0gB9uS5YWDiepZh8bSdX-WPPwa0gvOoHPfhpB_w9HKFFDQMArpedTVYaAUUP-AF0yLy-d4irgTcX-Oqv0cJwiBYrVh9YPB3ZY41OMMvT6Vc7YtVY9hijMD7_Cb5LMJs3/w480-h640/20200508101731_IMG_4623.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br />
I followed the directions other than to leave off the flap on the chest pocket and only have the one - for a little visual interest I added a button and buttonhole. I also did topstitched French seams for the side rather than flat-felled as I find flat-felling a bit of a faff - although I did do it as instructed to attach the sleeves. I also understitched all around the facing just for the fun of it, but forgot that this would be visible with the fold back towards the convertible collar and had to unpick the visible stitches because they'd got a bit messy in trying to negotiate the corner. </div><div><br /></div><div>Plus I didn't have much pink thread left - this was the end of a spool left after making my Ruska knot dress which I made a year ago and have never blogged (I've actually made three!) so I had to do a little cheating and used grey thread for all the construction and pink just for topstitching and buttonholes. On the topstitched French seams at the sides I even had to use grey for the bobbin threads to eke out a little extra. Luckily it worked!<br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJrup38lRDLGh935uIQPBP-EFKh1KDDqnUEvcPGs0T2zrKP1aDrN0Zu3EifwkfGw_vYmt5_gMdjoneQxTXimNFfYzel2HGh6on5YeDIw01-YjPGmaDLRZscEoNNrHwdXyYXZq1fOFm-M3/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJrup38lRDLGh935uIQPBP-EFKh1KDDqnUEvcPGs0T2zrKP1aDrN0Zu3EifwkfGw_vYmt5_gMdjoneQxTXimNFfYzel2HGh6on5YeDIw01-YjPGmaDLRZscEoNNrHwdXyYXZq1fOFm-M3/w480-h640/20200508101654_IMG_4618.JPG" width="480" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Well, that's about as much as I can say for this repeat make! I might have to look into using some other men's shirt patterns just for a bit of variety. I've also tried the <a href="https://freesewing.org/designs/simon/" target="_blank">Freesewing Simon Shirt </a>(<a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/04/freesewing-simon-shirt-fun-experiment.html" target="_blank">my version here</a> - although this was hacked and I accidentally gave myself tiny seam allowances) which is a nice classic and customisable, and the <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2015/05/what-coop-or-how-i-rescued-what-was.html" target="_blank">Great British Sewing Bee Men's Shirt from the 2nd book </a>which is really nice but had a big mistake with the sleeve drafting. I fixed it on the fly but it was my first ever time making a shirt so although it seems to have worked I'm not as confident to use that pattern again. I have a lovely pattern in July 2019 edition of <a href="https://www.ottobredesign.com/uusi2010/img/browse/2019_7/all_designs.pdf" target="_blank">Ottobre Magazine</a> plus a couple from old Burda Style mags, but more recommendations always welcome!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I hope you're all well and coping OK, and managing to find a little happiness in sewing!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">NorseOtter xx</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-22924788460385840372020-03-08T18:21:00.000+00:002020-03-08T18:21:08.315+00:00Slinky Solina from Named's Breaking the Pattern BookHi everyone!<br />
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Happy International Women's Day!<br />
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I've made quite a nice dent in my Spring Sewing Plan, with four out of the five garments made! I have two in the pipeline yet to be photographed and blogged, but today I'm sharing my latest make which I cranked out the day before heading on holiday to Rome. I ended up packing a nearly all handmade wardrobe for that trip (including garments made last year that I need to blog still) and I think only a couple of ready-to-wear items. It's nice to have reached the point that the balance is starting to tip the other way! Anyway, settle in for some awkward poses and what I think is a rather lovely handmade dress - may I present - The Solina!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Posing in the B&B in Rome</td></tr>
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<br />The Solina dress is from the very popular Named Breaking the Pattern book. I've actually made three versions of the Ruska dress last year (but haven't yet got around to blogging them), so I'm pleased that I've got good use out of this book. I love this dress and I was desperate to finish it before going on holiday as for me it's the kind of style you can wear for sightseeing in the day that will take you through to dinner if you don't have time to go back to your hotel. I managed to wear it for a lovely dinner in Trastevere where we were staying, and for a day out in the Vatican Museum and St Peter's church where I think it gave off a certain air of ecclesiastical chic!<br />
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For this Solina I combined three sizes (sizing is specific to the book, I think I ranged between UK 12-16), starting with the 4 at the neck and shoulders, increasing to a 6 at the bust and tapering down to a 5 at the waist. I made size 5 sleeves and was careful to try and match the shape of the sleeve head to any changes I'd made the armsyce as a result of blending sizes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looks like we're not getting on. We do, I promise!</td></tr>
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Blending sizes was pretty easy to do and meant I didn't have to do an FBA, which would have been more of an ordeal given this is a dress with no waist seam or bust darts. It's worked out OK but I think I didn't end up needing to go all the way to the 6 as I have a bit of room at centre front and under the arms - however the waist ties sit a little high so perhaps for next time I'll add 0.5cm of length to the bodice portion of the pattern piece and take the sides from the bust down back to a size 5. I could probably do the opposite adjustment at the back and take out a little length to account for my swayback too, if I'm being picky.<br />
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Sizing aside, I find the sleeves a little short which is weird as I'm 2" shorter than the height this pattern is drafted for (I'm 5'6" compared to Named drafting for 5'8"). I think my arms are pretty proportionate to my height, but next time I'd add a couple of centimetres to the sleeve length as I'd prefer to have a little extra drape here rather than not have them reach my wrist! The dress length is pretty good for me too. None of these are major issues but little tweaks for next time.<br />
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This fabric is chestnut peachskin which I bought in a little splurge at Fabric Godmother literally days before last year's Black Friday. I'd forgotten all about sales! So I don't know if this would have gone on sale or whether I'd have gone down the rabbit hole of buying loads of extra stuff I don't need in order to snag a bargain, but I'm sort of kicking myself! Anyway, it's lovely stuff and so silky to the touch. I didn't do the best job with pattern matching - I was so focused on not having floral boobs that I didn't pay much attention to how the centre front was coming together, so there are some odd chunks of cut-off design that it would look better without. Oh well!<br />
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It was a bit of a slippery beast to work with and didn't like being overhandled - the points where I've turned through my corners are looking a bit chewed up and my band collar isn't the neatest on the inside! I still have a way to go with getting my finishing neat at the top of a zip at the back of the neck - mine always come out looking a bit mangled and my hooks and eyes are always floating oddly!<br />
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I'd make this again with the sizing tweaks but think next time I'd use a fabric that was ever so slightly sturdier to hold the ties and collar and bit better. This fabric just wants to slip any knots undone! I think a grey linen might be cool, if it didn't look too overly modest?<br />
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Until next time sewing friends, happy making!<br />
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PS I'll leave you with an explanation of why the cat is sitting in shreds of paper! They're offcuts from my Zadie jumpsuit pattern A0 printout, my paper bin was full so I put them all on the chair ready to take down for recycling but the cat decided they'd make a perfect nest. She'd never sat in that chair before! I like her company, so I've let the paper nest stay.<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-92086343899826446942020-02-09T14:46:00.001+00:002020-02-16T11:22:05.865+00:00A Tale of Two Kalle Shirtdresses<style type="text/css">
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Hi everyone!</div>
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I've actually now made four <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern" target="_blank">Closet Case Kalles </a>and I'm nowhere near stopping! My first cropped version has been <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/06/cropped-kalle-shirt-in-vintage-fabric.html" target="_blank">blogged successfully here</a>, but I also have a beautiful semi-sheer version with classic collar which is yet to make it to the blog and has now been packed away til the weather warms up. It'll probably pop up as a twofer when I get around to writing up all the things I sewed but never blogged last year... </div>
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I love that this pattern is quite an easy sew but has lots of different options to keep things fresh. Band or classic collar; pockets or none; three different lengths; hem facing or bias binding; classic, concealed or popover button band; inverted or box pleat at the back; etc etc! Loads of ways to make the same pattern to look really different! There's even an optional long-sleeve sleeve add-on if you want (I don't have this as you have to buy it extra and I'm too cheap!).</div>
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This navy version I made last summer and has been worn a ton. It looks much more expensive than it is - I believe it's either a tencel or a cupro and came from the celebrated Walthamstow market vendor The Man Outside Sainsbury's a few years ago. People mistake it for silk because of its lovely weight and drape, but it does have a slight tendency to cling which you might notice in a couple of these pics - it was quite hard to get it to hang loose from my buns! Disturbingly that back view is probably quite well-known to people in my workplace but I've only just realised it myself! </div>
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I made a waist tie for this dress using the pattern piece for the SOI Anna coat but doubled in width. I haven't worn it that much because I don't like the front view that much - too much blousing under the bust with lots of fabric to gather around my waist, but it does look quite good from the back so maybe I should reconsider! I mentioned in my last post that I'm not great at getting waist ties to do up neatly, and I definitely made these ties too long and too wide. I double up the fabric so it's half the width tied around the body, which makes it less prone to crumpling, but gives it better body for the hanging ties. It looks a bit weird being that bit longer than the skirt but I'd shorten for next time. </div>
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My band collared version I made in precious traditional Japanese cotton which I had to cut the fronts on
the cross-grain and use plain black linen for the inner yoke and
bindings to eke out! On my Japanese version decided to use a popper
for the collar for a clean look but there are pearly pink buttons on
the concealed placket. I’m still in two minds about whether to add
breast pockets, I kept some little scraps of the fabric but wouldn’t
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I find both these dresses so easy and comfortable to wear and they get regular rotation, even in cooler months where I'll wear a thermal long-sleeved tee underneath and cardigan on top. I plan to make another version with pockets, concealed placket and classic collar in the Paul Smith elephants shirting I've been hoarding for at least six years as I've well and truly auditioned this pattern now and think it's the right casting. I might lengthen the hem a couple of inches though. To cut a belt or not is still to be decided! I also still really want to try the popover version at some point but not in the tunic length, which I don't know how I'd style. </div>
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As I made these a while ago I can't remember too much about the actual sewing, other than sewing the tencel or cupro was a bit of a challenge as it frayed in a weird fluffy way really easily and was quite a beast to press and topstitch neatly - I really didn't like it when I'd finished as I could really see all the flaws and bits where I hadn't handled the fabric well. Now that I've worn it loads there isn't anything noticeably bothersome about it so I just need to chill and crack on with the next one. </div>
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As many many other sewists have reviewed this dress I'll concur that the instructions are well-written, it's a relatively easy and fun sew. I do get a little confused with the concealed placket still as I never know if the markings are cut for wrong or right side up of the fabric, but with a bit of extra attention and precise marking and measuring it does tend to work out! </div>
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It's also an easy fitting garment with cut-on sleeves, so there isn't too much work to be done in that department unless you're a perfectionist. I could probably make the collar and neck opening a bit closer to my neck but it remains to be seen if I bother...It also comes up a little short at the side hem where it curves up, which I'm OK with as I don't mind a little flirtiness every now and again, but now I have two this length I might lengthen the next version to have something a little different. </div>
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Thanks for indulging me if you've read this far! I'm pretty far through my Zadie jumpsuit (pattern no 2 of my plan this year) so hope to share that with you soon - it's been a fun make so far!</div>
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Norse Otter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-12336102333497933042020-02-02T18:35:00.000+00:002020-02-02T18:36:59.346+00:00Trina Birthday Dress of Dreams <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi everyone!<br />
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Today I present to you my lovely linen <a href="https://victorypatterns.com/products/trina-pdf" target="_blank">Trina dress</a> which I made for my birthday earlier this month and is my first tick off my <a href="https://norseotter.blogspot.com/2020/01/new-year-sewing-plans-and-tentative.html" target="_blank">'Sew Five Easy Things' list for this year</a>. It also would have been great to have posted in time for the #SewTwistsandTies challenge, but I was too busy birthdaying with events with friends and family bookending the weekends around the day itself to get photos in time. Such is life!<br />
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I made the dress unlined so I can wear with a slip at the moment for my birthday and any other fancy events that come up, but also can float around comfortably in it in the summer. It's made with <a href="https://www.mcelroyfabrics.co.uk/lady-mcelroy-orange-blossom" target="_blank">this Lady McElroy linen</a>, and I think I handled the print placement pretty well, although if I'm honest I'm never really sure if it's going to work out until I actually make the thing!<br />
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The combination of a deep jewel-toned background colour and bright summer oranges and orange blossom design (my mum calls this 'Spanish soap wrapper style'!) also give it flexibility for either season in my opinion. I believe orange blossoms are also wedding celebration flowers in Spanish culture so I'll also bear it in mind for any upcoming nuptials I might get invited to! Don't you love it when you can make a special garment that has potential for more than one-off wear?<br />
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I've made this dress before for a friend and <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/01/trina-dress-made-for-very-good-friend.html" target="_blank">wrote quite an extensive review here</a>, so won't go into too many construction details this time. What I will say is that this is a great and easy pattern to make, and any criticism I gave of the instructions was perhaps a bit harsh - having that level of granular detail might be really helpful to other sewers even if it didn't mesh with my way of doing things. This time around I found this an absolute pleasure to sew. I also used the pieces full length rather than shortening the skirt and the sleeves, which I did by request for my friend's version (I'm 5'6" and the pattern is drafted for 5'8" but I'm happy with the length).<br />
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The only challenge in the pattern itself is making sure you mark all the notches correctly so that similar looking pieces don't end up being attached at the wrong seams, which I confess I managed to do with the skirt panels! That, and of course the gorgeous swish of the skirt means you're handling a lot of fabric and attaching them to quite small bias-cut bodice pieces. Just make sure you don't skip any opportunities to stabilise! It's not hard to put together but has lovely details like the bodice overlap that allow the waist ties to pass through which I just love.<br />
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I did however do two things that were a bit foolish and lazy in making this up...<br />
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Number one was that I bought this beautiful fabric especially, and then bundled it into the washing machine still folded selvage to selvage, so of course it came out with vertical wash lines down the centre! I've done this to so many fabrics, I don't know why I don't ever learn! It's especially galling when it's a special fabric. I've managed to cut my pieces to avoid the worst of it, but as the skirt pieces are so wide it wasn't possible to avoid it completely.<br />
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The second was that as I'd already traced the pattern in my friend's size and it was only a size up from what I'd have cut for myself, I just went ahead and cut my fabric using those pieces reasoning that the wrapover style would make it adjustable to fit. For the most part this is true, and it's lovely having all that skirt to play with, but in all honesty I could have got a better bodice fit with a smaller size. Not a huge issue though - still looks and feels glam to me! Although I cannot work out how to fasten the waist ties neatly...<br />
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If you can't already tell I'm pretty pleased with this and have been dreaming of making other versions. Perhaps a plain black one with a self-drafted straight skirt? But in the meantime I'm being good with my 'Five Easy Pieces' plan and have cut out a Zadie Jumpsuit which should be making its way to the blog soon!<br />
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Happy making!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-25071426339475273462020-01-26T19:17:00.000+00:002020-01-26T19:17:49.889+00:00Mixed Success Burda Midi Dress 109 (August 2019 issue)
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I'm back on the blog! I'm experimenting with taking pictures of myself using my phone as a remote so pics are of assorted quality, but at least I have some! Sewing-wise I've been on a bit of a Burda kick this past year but need to get around to posting about it. I love getting the magazines each month and flicking through over and over for inspiration. Yes, the tracing is a nightmare and the instructions are sparse but there are usually a couple of real winners in each issue. This dress however I'm on the fence about!</div>
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I planned to make this Burda dress 109 from the August 2019 issue for Christmas but didn’t quite finish in time! It’s made
in a viscose twill I believe – it was a precut length of approx 3 metres from the
remnants table at Rolls and Rems and cost me £10. It's got a gorgeous hand to it and I love the slightly fawn-esque colour and dot pattern. I bought it the
weekend of Halloween (which I remember as it was extremely busy in
the shop with everyone getting their orange and black costume fabrics
together) so I think it’s one of the fastest fabric to garment
transformations I’ve done in a while!</div>
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I like the style of
the finished dress – I finally got to make a midi with bishop
sleeves like all the dresses I’ve been lurking on Instagram for
probably over a year – but this pattern had some needless
challenges! I’ll start off with the basics. The pattern is from the tall size range so I had to do some modifications off the bat for my 5'6" stature. I shortened the
bodice and sleeves by 1.5 cm at the lower lengthen/ shorten lines. I
chose size 42 and did a 1 inch FBA – <a href="https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2019/10/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments" target="_blank">I used this FBA tutorial from Seamwork</a> BUT I find that this tutorial adds width to the waist, so I shaved off a chunk at the side seams to
bring the pattern back to its original width so it would match with
the skirt seam. It’s a bit weird that Seamwork doesn’t have this
step – did they overlook it? </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The skirt dart (if you can spot it) is now at a wild angle but at least it matches the bodice dart at the waist seam!</td></tr>
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<br />Anyway, so far so
basic – here’s where my unanticipated issues came in. I thought
this would be quite an easy make as it’s a fairly basic dress style
– but annoyingly there were a lot of problems with notches that
didn’t match up, and they were so far off that it can’t just be
user error! First off, my back skirt and back bodice darts did not
match at the waistline at all. I ended up doing an on the fix fly of
re-angling my darts so that the apex remained in the same place but
the legs go off at a jauntier angle to meet the back waist darts. I
think I managed to keep the dart uptake the same and it’s not too
noticeable in this fabric, but is a pretty basic drafting error!
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I also found that
the notches on the sleeves didn’t align with those in the armscye
at all, and there weren’t any notches on the end of the sleeve or
cuff to help you distribute the fullness. I winged it on my first
cuff then made measurements so that the other would be the same and
hoped it would hang well! I basically lined up the seamline approx
halfway along with cuff when gathering and this seemed to work ok.
The instructions for binding the sleeve slit where a bit sparse too –
they mention to ‘mitre binding on inside at top of vent (like a
small dart)’ but without a visual I wasn’t sure what this was
supposed to look like, so I just did a basic binding and figured I
could make that dart later if I found out what it was supposed to be.
As it turns out it doesn’t show anyway as my cuffs have quite a bit
of overlap (my fault this time; my pattern master only makes 1cm seam
allowances so I traced the pattern with those, but for the cuff
pieces you cut rectangles directly out of the fabric with the
measurements including a 1.5cm seam allowance and I just forgot and
sewed as 1cm).
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My final gripe is
that the shoulders are way too wide for me, and again I think there’s
a mistake somewhere with the pattern. On the photo page the
description says ‘inlaid pleats along the shoulder’ but there are
no markings or instructions for that when making it up. The line
drawing doesn’t show any pleats – although confusingly the layout
diagrams do seem to show a gathering line at the shoulder. The model
is doing some kind of artistically awkward pose in the photos so the
shoulders are all creased and anything could be going on, so who can
tell whether the shoulders are meant to be plain, pleated or
gathered! I think next time I’d shave a bit of width off (maybe
3cm?) and make the sleeves longer to compensate, as they’re a good
length with a nice amount of blousing as is.
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To be honest, what
with having the manipulate the back skirt darts and mess around with
the shoulders I’m not sure I would make this pattern again, but I
am am quite pleased with how it turned out even if it’s not perfect
and it was a bit of a hassle to get there. I left the skirt at the
tall length and am enjoying its floatiness in this fabric, and the
dress skims rather than clings which is ok with me.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghbGGCwOtBLMTrGwjW69JGzVrrkdM1Gs54hVSF8luf4hkWKl-CAWI96wkiTPLZqZyr4AD_gialLajvM95jBoGxkU4csAAVBSsBgKjuc81RUKWmktBycehar3mU90dw29AHOWKoIJcMNfOZ/s1600/20200119115833_IMG_4201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghbGGCwOtBLMTrGwjW69JGzVrrkdM1Gs54hVSF8luf4hkWKl-CAWI96wkiTPLZqZyr4AD_gialLajvM95jBoGxkU4csAAVBSsBgKjuc81RUKWmktBycehar3mU90dw29AHOWKoIJcMNfOZ/s640/20200119115833_IMG_4201.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you spot my side seam zip?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
I also made things
slightly more challenging for myself my deciding to fully line the
bodice rather than use facings – better to use up that scrap fabric
for a sturdier garment than have an annoying length of fabric
left over to taunt me! I’ve never made a dress with a side seam zip
before so I didn’t work out the neatest way to have all the seams
neatly enclosed with this version – I just attached at the
neckline, did a burrito-style attachment for the lower bodice and
skirt seams, and then basted the armscyes, shoulder and side seams
together to be treated as one, which means they’re just overlocked
as a double thickness and press open. It worked but it means I need
to do a couple of hand stitches at the shoulder seams to keep the
pressed open seam allowances neatly hidden away. No pretty guts for
sure this time, so no pics! I’m not sure why the shoulder seams are sewn
together so late in the instructions, as if I’d done these earlier
it would have made for a neater finish there, but maybe it’s to
make it easier to insert the side zip.
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If you've made it this far, thanks for sticking with me! For all its faults this dress has already got a lot of wear. I'd think twice before making the pattern again though, and I do still feel like I should do something about those shoulders... Let me know in the comments if you have any ideas! One friend suggested I add small shoulder pads, yay or nay?!</div>
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Until next time,</div>
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<br /></div>
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NorseOtter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-22357061518444850682020-01-02T14:19:00.000+00:002020-01-02T14:19:59.213+00:00New Year Sewing Plans and Tentative Blogging ResurgenceHi everybody!<br />
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I can't believe I haven't blogged since March! I moved house this year which in the build-up and post-move settling in put a big kink in my sewing and blogging, but I'm amazed I haven't got back into it since now. Anyway, I hope you enjoy my contributions to this little corner of the internet, irregular as they may be!<br />
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I've drafted a review of everything I made in 2019 as I did make a fair bit of stuff, but didn't manage to photograph much so I might save posting that until I get some pics. So to kick off and ease me in here are my plans for sewing in 2020!<br />
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<a href="https://www.mcelroyfabrics.co.uk/lady-mcelroy-orange-blossom" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1368" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuR4GHYPYRsjIDJgaqIT1n4l_umQUWQVc9mkxr5M8fWUwJeZU57E0o-GG7P1Urkykc8kJsbUIpYgQ2F-pcTB1tr1SrLem9SjT7SWphknNu26qSn-Iob25nYE5IfLsHSxydLSWLn6D2mpww/s320/orange_blossom_fl_3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjICXbUiT2_PIhPvobA4h9usKIvqS4N2LxO_aNx3bhjReAGFjfGPt4B4zjoV5Ay7WmQqgi9bOwgSd17lg9ZAYv5gVWh4Z6DjwQxDmXPhr6R50M5CEAXFZ8AWCiMYb2OYGCsXBpF6SoAbHv8/s400/Trina-Image-9_1200x.jpg" width="265" /></div>
<br />
<b><a href="https://victorypatterns.com/products/trina-pdf" target="_blank">Victory Patterns Trina Dress</a> in Lady McElroy Orange Blossom Linen</b><br />
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I bought this pattern a few years ago and <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/01/trina-dress-made-for-very-good-friend.html" target="_blank">made it up as a birthday present for a friend</a>. Now I want to do the same for myself, as it'll be my birthday in a few weeks. It's a relatively easy pattern (apart from handling the weight of all that skirt!) and I have it traced in my friend's measurements which aren't too dissimilar from my own. I even kept a bodice muslin so will try that on, see if it needs any tweaks, then get cracking! The only thing I'm a little annoyed about is that I didn't open out my beautiful fabric when I prewashed it so there are some wash lines running vertically down the centre. Hopefully I can cut around it but it's such a thoughtless error I should have known to avoid!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1iYh4KFI_Bl0NGbqTU1DOd1qkuSxAB0sjo5Dgbr36Dh4zg1bT5ZyZ0kSPFqG6g1Vtxu_gsdjHRa40we3eIoZ4kYvie6VmhNu1g6JIBasR7FVSKXwidVJ6i__D-GnsrsZ2yaew0RFcSSv/s1600/IMG_1410__57573.1570710134.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1iYh4KFI_Bl0NGbqTU1DOd1qkuSxAB0sjo5Dgbr36Dh4zg1bT5ZyZ0kSPFqG6g1Vtxu_gsdjHRa40we3eIoZ4kYvie6VmhNu1g6JIBasR7FVSKXwidVJ6i__D-GnsrsZ2yaew0RFcSSv/s320/IMG_1410__57573.1570710134.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3un416f_EoPX2Fj1Eq684T16lI6W3AptB-rp08JnelGGv5mnjUBGuMWE_ujrOdqSxxjDgd4_fHGXjuQkAA2_JWxjLq6ESA9d-ZzIpF3GxRCc1q6-UAT4Cqy0sAX68LEsWG03f3Uwg1mD/s1600/UUSIkuva6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3un416f_EoPX2Fj1Eq684T16lI6W3AptB-rp08JnelGGv5mnjUBGuMWE_ujrOdqSxxjDgd4_fHGXjuQkAA2_JWxjLq6ESA9d-ZzIpF3GxRCc1q6-UAT4Cqy0sAX68LEsWG03f3Uwg1mD/s400/UUSIkuva6.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/breaking-the-pattern-a-modern-way-to-sew/" target="_blank">Named Breaking the Pattern Solina Dress</a> in Floral Peachskin</b><br />
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I've actually made three Ruska dresses from the Breaking the Pattern book (which I got as a present last Christmas), all different variations and worn frequently, but blogged never! I'll have to do a batch post once I feel like posing for photos. Loads of people have made the Solina dress and I think it looks fabulous on everyone. I'm hoping the fabric I've chosen makes for an interesting day dress - I just have to trace the pattern and do my usual modification check on getting a good FBA that also caters for my smaller upper chest and narrow shoulders.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw3KrkNowaVhZDb_rYMMmcakO-6zQp5yGTJEHK55kCD2NSwMD7tfL7Bj7iIIr9d4xg8hrOdjxl1Cm0HYii52AdGf7zPWkyEx1Pheh6Ai19NNsRt-vIBObQMMOtrvlqnfgmM6fJgfZshld4/s1600/1e31ae_b5ca0abeb1844b308311e4e54c748035mv2_d_2403_2652_s_4_2_1024x1024%25402x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw3KrkNowaVhZDb_rYMMmcakO-6zQp5yGTJEHK55kCD2NSwMD7tfL7Bj7iIIr9d4xg8hrOdjxl1Cm0HYii52AdGf7zPWkyEx1Pheh6Ai19NNsRt-vIBObQMMOtrvlqnfgmM6fJgfZshld4/s400/1e31ae_b5ca0abeb1844b308311e4e54c748035mv2_d_2403_2652_s_4_2_1024x1024%25402x.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/zadie-jumpsuit-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit</a> in black linen</b><br />
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Another hugely popular pattern that looks good on everyone! I tried to resist it for a while as I thought I could mash up my own version or try out the jumpsuit from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual (which I still plan to do at some stage but isn't very straightforward). But as Christmas rolled around again I figured that sometimes it's just nice to have the work done for you, and after a few recent stop/start projects I'm looking forward to an easier sew which should fit nicely into my everyday wardrobe. I decided to try out getting this printed in A0 professionally for the first time via the Foldline, but as they have been shut for the Christmas break I have to wait a little while for delivery, which is frustrating when I have a nice chunk of time off to sew!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgM9AXFZPRHrD0kVhr6BkuVHqOxb9BqoKFjcqLk4oC5LZLF1qMphNuLcz5_q-DIUgAAo-1Frxdi5iLdQ_h47QgFyl2fvWpkKwl-MjKcIQEmoJML7UOlyjDA6efash2QC_SL1lgztOdSseb/s1600/Cielo_Top_Dress_Pattern_Closet_Case_Patterns-21_fd5c679e-98bb-4d48-bf67-38b211a7de98_1280x1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1279" data-original-width="854" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgM9AXFZPRHrD0kVhr6BkuVHqOxb9BqoKFjcqLk4oC5LZLF1qMphNuLcz5_q-DIUgAAo-1Frxdi5iLdQ_h47QgFyl2fvWpkKwl-MjKcIQEmoJML7UOlyjDA6efash2QC_SL1lgztOdSseb/s400/Cielo_Top_Dress_Pattern_Closet_Case_Patterns-21_fd5c679e-98bb-4d48-bf67-38b211a7de98_1280x1280.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj83a-TCvcgs4OdxiAxmcyYxKDtYeRrG8mzAXGgZRlmpG4rBZ_c1FM-nuMo5avnHh1FkldhA4tyduNS8ZhPApVV8Grnu_jruJVv98149BTrP81NRzTSMX6OBCanJQNXxJAE-w1DdP00tES7/s1600/IMG_6401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj83a-TCvcgs4OdxiAxmcyYxKDtYeRrG8mzAXGgZRlmpG4rBZ_c1FM-nuMo5avnHh1FkldhA4tyduNS8ZhPApVV8Grnu_jruJVv98149BTrP81NRzTSMX6OBCanJQNXxJAE-w1DdP00tES7/s400/IMG_6401.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/cielo-top-dress-pattern-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Closet Case Cielo Top</a> in stash Liberty cotton lawn<br />
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This is another pattern I was drawn to but didn't buy initially as I figured I had similar patterns I could modify. Again, lack of time to tinker and Christmas being a great excuse to justify being gifted anything I was holding back on, I received this as a present and sent to be A0 printed along with my Zadie. Hoping for a nice instant gratification sew that will use up some long-stashed fabric! The image above shows a Goldhawk Road haul from 2014 I think - happily all the other fabrics have been used now (although the polka dot drill I only made up a couple of months ago) but the purple floral lawn (second from clockwise) I held onto until I perfected the fit for the Anna dress which I haven't yet done, plus I didn;t actually buy enough fabric to make it and it's a bit lightweight! So I'm happy that the right pattern has now come along to use it up with. I'm planning on making the top version of the Cielo with big bouffy sleeves!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuyuyf8n2aWHdyRlxU_02jNSi6p77LGx4Oow_DVsNChZbENYiU9X3WSgrGgDzsgnGLWzqtDHAuGVcQNdDWn9ph6-9Q5b42uTTYSOaH2NFjQfonTJEIA-b2FYjSHixwlQgiX63M2ZBPK_KU/s1600/FIRBREMOOD_056.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="533" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuyuyf8n2aWHdyRlxU_02jNSi6p77LGx4Oow_DVsNChZbENYiU9X3WSgrGgDzsgnGLWzqtDHAuGVcQNdDWn9ph6-9Q5b42uTTYSOaH2NFjQfonTJEIA-b2FYjSHixwlQgiX63M2ZBPK_KU/s400/FIRBREMOOD_056.png" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.fibremood.com/en/patterns/463-carmella-jumpsuit" target="_blank">Fibre Mood Carmella Jumpsuit</a> - Fabrication undecided<br />
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I love <a href="https://www.magnificentthread.com/2019/03/fibre-mood-carmella-jumpsuit.html" target="_blank">Shauni from The Magnificent Thread's version</a> of this jumpsuit and when Fibre Mood had a 5 PDF for €15 pattern sale I dove in and went for it! I don't have the PDF printed yet nor have I decided the fabric - I might use black linen or lightweight denim for this, I'm not sure I have anything in the stash that would be suitable.<br />
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There are loads more lovely patterns I've been bookmarking and dreaming up, but I'm going to commit to these five for now and see how I get on. Hopefully I'll get around to posting the results in good time too!<br />
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Until next time, Happy New Year and happy sewing!<br />
<br />
NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-75157310854962959152019-03-10T12:18:00.001+00:002019-03-10T12:18:19.511+00:00Dangerous Curves: Sew Over It Camille Jumpsuit<style type="text/css">
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<br />
I made my first
jumpsuit! And another <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/my-capsule-wardrobe-work-to-weekend-ebook/" target="_blank">Work to Weekend Pattern</a> – that’s two
back-to-back now (plus I’ve also made the Dana shirt last year but never got
pics – maybe it’ll surface at some point when the weather warms
up).</div>
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The <b>Camille Jumpsuit
</b>was one of the patterns that pushed me over the edge to click 'purchase' for this e-book
pattern package. Although I probably could have put together a package of similar patterns from the Burda Style magazines that I already own, the curated look of the e-book really
sold me, and the modelled photos of the Camille jumpsuit look so sophisticated!<br />
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This blog post is a long read so the short story is - I love this pattern and want to make it work for me, but I still have a way to go with perfecting the fit. Don't you just hate it when your standards don't match up with your skills?!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqS6XyYpNS4WsD1CT2YD4radus5fzxnYBvcstp1cdx5LCXtYLCwb_zc0Z8vlkdMBOB6aC-kqoQ3kBp_oePCfN8cjjebsoUKmUvV3yDN3C7kZq5q6oQUbZUJrh0D4_MMT1MuvzM-scwmWVc/s1600/IMG_3485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqS6XyYpNS4WsD1CT2YD4radus5fzxnYBvcstp1cdx5LCXtYLCwb_zc0Z8vlkdMBOB6aC-kqoQ3kBp_oePCfN8cjjebsoUKmUvV3yDN3C7kZq5q6oQUbZUJrh0D4_MMT1MuvzM-scwmWVc/s640/IMG_3485.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I made up the pattern in this gifted soft brushed
cotton, which is so lovely to wear and has a nice drape for the trouser
portion of the jumpsuit, which I love. I was tempted to use the
reverse of this fabric too, as there’s a cool abstract effect where
just smudges of colour from the floral design peek through the
black background, but in the end I couldn’t deny the awesome pink
and orange blooms their day. I disregarded pattern matching as I didn’t spot much of a pattern repeat, but realise there is a little mirroring on my bum!<br />
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I worked
really hard on the fit through the torso of this garment, but frustratingly I neglected to think about the sleeves. I used a size 12 as my base and went to town
on almost every fitting tweak except that one! I feel I spotted
somewhere on the internet another sewist mentioning tight sleeves – but
I got lazy or forgot. As I’d used up every scrap of fabric in cutting out I could only let the seams out by 1/4” and hope
for the best – but it’s not really enough as now I have some issues in getting in and out of the jumpsuit as my arm movement is a bit restricted! If you're interested in this pattern but have some flesh on your arms then seriously consider how much room you need<i> before cutting out</i>! </div>
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The adjustments I
<i>did</i> manage to make are as follows, many based on playing around with
my <b><i>Fit For Real People</i></b> and <b><i>Pants for Real People Books</i></b>:</div>
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- A 2” FBA which I
sort of made up by following and adapting <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/1940s-wrap-dress-sewalong-full-bust-adjustment-wrap-bodice/" target="_blank">the SOI tutorial for the1940s wrap dress</a>. As the bodices are not exactly like-for-like, this resulted in making one of the jumpsuit bodice pleats
much deeper than the other – but it looks OK on.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- The FBA also gave
me a long skinny horizontal bust dart which I was tempted to ignore and leave open, but as the
print is quite busy and there’s a long skinny vertical dart on the
back bodice I figured it would be worth it for the fit I wanted, even
though it might look weird in a solid fabric.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- I added a 3/8”
wedge to the top of the inseam as a full thigh adjustment. A good
idea that I think I should apply to other patterns!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- I added 3/8” to
the seam allowance to the bottom edge of the bodice pieces and on the
top of the trousers to make a full 1” seam allowance for
fit-on-the-go adjustments. Because of this, I changed the order of
making up and made each piece separately, with lots of pinning and
basting before finally closing the wrapover and attaching to the
waistband pieces. I ended up using a 5/8” SA on the back bodice and
back trouser pieces but used the full inch on the front trouser and
front bodice piece.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- After trying on my
bodice front wrap was gaping, so I increased the crossover (not sure
how much exactly) and snipped off the resulting excess which I’ve pinned to my paper pattern pieces in case I
want to make this adjustment again. I think I might have over-fit the bodice however as now there is a bit of pulling at the centre front waistband. Not sure what the happy medium is between pulling at the waist and gaping at the bust - possibly a different fit adjustment somewhere!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- As mentioned, I
used the sleeves in a size 12 as is and they were really tight, so I
let out the seams as much as I could – they’re still too tight!<br />
<br />
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
One niggle is I
couldn’t find a notch for the front facings to correspond to the
shoulder notch on the back facings (not my cutting error – it’s
not on the paper pattern). That was a bit annoying as it would be
easy to accidentally put them in upside down. With a bit of trial and
error I think I made it up right!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
While I love the
idea of this jumpsuit and would make up just the
trouser portion of the pattern again in a heartbeat, I definitely still have work to do to make the full jumpsuit fit right.
Unfortunately I’m not sure if I’ll be able to wear this attempt at it again
– or if I do, I’ll have to thoroughly warm up first to keep my
arms and shoulders nice and limber for when I need to zip myself in
and out during bathroom breaks!<br />
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Next time I would:<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- Do a full bicep
adjustment, and add more room in the sleeve throughout<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- Add pockets. I
omitted them despite cutting them out this time out of laziness – I
was doing so much basting and unpicking for fit that I plain couldn’t
be bothered when it came to it!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- Maybe see if I
could rotate the long skinny side bust dart into one of the pleats or
to add more room at the armscye? Never done any dart rotation before
so that would be a gamble (or learning experience depending how
you look at it)<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
- Add a smidge more
room for my big booty – either at the side seams or using a
technique that is almost like a full bust adjustment for the
rear!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Wow, that was an
essay! If you read all that, well done and thank you! Here’s to
progress with the fitting journey (and body acceptance) and an improved jumpsuit
next time!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
NorseOtter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-72105004277531815352019-03-03T12:59:00.001+00:002019-03-03T12:59:41.132+00:00A Bright Basic: Sew Over It Anna Coat<style type="text/css">
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I made my first
coat!
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As per usual, I
finished this a few weeks ago and have been giving it a whirl to see
how I really feel about it before writing up my blog (not because I
haven’t had time to get photos, honest!). This is the Sew Over It Anna Coat from the Work to Weekend e-book. </div>
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I had a little
confusion picking my size for this as the fitting notes suggest you
focus on getting the shoulder measurement right. However, I wan’t
entirely sure where exactly to take the measurements – perhaps this is
really standard assumed knowledge, but I would
have found it helpful to have a diagram or description of which parts of
the shoulder the points to measure between.
</div>
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The rest of my measurements, weight distribution and fitting journey also left me
undecided on which size to choose. I wanted to use the high bust fit and do an FBA as this has given me good results with other patterns so far, as picking a size based on my full bust tends to give me too
much fabric in the upper chest. However, the points I ended up choosing for the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement (between the knobbly
bits according to my helpful friend Heather via the SOI facebook
group) put me in a size 16, which was also the size given for my full bust sizing and
was only a size or two above my waist and hips.<br />
<br />
I kept it simple and went for a 16 all over, even though my
upper bust measurement put me in a size 10, reasoning the wrap style
would be forgiving where I needed a closer fit. I also compared the finished coat measurements to the guidelines for ease given in Fit for Real People, and as there was 1-2” less ease in the pattern I
figured it couldn't end up too huge!</div>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Overall, it is fine,
although I feel like it is too roomy in the upper chest and shoulders
despite all that! It fits some thick layers underneath, which as an
unlined coat that I nevertheless wanted to wear straightaway happens
to be quite useful. I shortened the sleeves by 1cm, but I think next
time I’d need to do a hollow chest and forward shoulder adjustment
so could maybe leave the sleeves as drafted if the shoulders ended up
in the right place!</div>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The fabric I used is 100% cotton twill furnishing fabric called
‘Como’, picked up at a fancy shop called Pret a Vivre. I wouldn't normally shop there but noticed a £1 per metre sale which felt like the sign I needed to try coat-making. I also bought another 4 metres
of the ‘Wheat’ shade of this fabric (this colourway is ‘Ember') so will
have to get cracking on another coat soon… or make a sofa! </div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
With such a
bargainous fabric I felt free to get making with a few more risks
than usual. For one, I did not prewash the fabric (as it’s so thick
and heavy I thought it’d never dry in the small window of
inspiration I had). And another was to use the smoother ‘wrong’
side of the fabric for the outer, leaving the soft napped
side inside. While I’m pleased that it has resulted in a deeper,
richer colour being on show (and hopefully making it look less like
an actual sofa when worn) having the texture on the inside does make
it a little awkward when taking it off – it sticks to the
sleeves!<br />
<br /></div>
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I really enjoyed
working with this, the fabric reminds me of a brown cape my mum once
bought me from a second-hand shop that clearly had also been made out
of curtains – it was so fun for dressing up and feeling glamorous
when I was little! The fabric was so easy to work with and pressed
well. It does crease quite easily - I'd ironed the coat for these photos but after sitting on the train to get out to the woods it already looks pretty wrinkly. </div>
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The pattern also
came together pretty quickly – although I did get a little confused
about the inseam pocket instructions. I’m not sure if this was a
different technique than my usual or whether I was having an off day
but I assumed I knew what was going on and happened to get it very
wrong – involving a lot of unpicking! I also got a little confused about the stitching for the collar and lapels - the photo for this step isn't as clear as it could be, especially for a first timer. I'd advise marking your stitching start and stop points well and taking it slow, otherwise you may end up with pulling at the intersections. <br />
<br />
For my personal taste I find
the tie belt a bit skinny too – and it’s starting to look a bit
mangled with wear already so I’ll possibly make a wider one. This
time I would do a fold in and topstitch technique rather than turning
the belt inside out though- what with the nap clinging to itself and
the narrowness of the belt it was very time-consuming to turn the
belt right side out, and came out a bit lumpy in the end.</div>
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While I have my criticisms of this pattern (it's not as user-friendly as it could be given it's supposed to be a simplified version) I do like the finished result and as a wearable toile I've barely taken it off! I'm not sure I need two coats of the exact same style so I probably won't make another Anna - I'd rather apply my new coat-making chops to something with a few more details. </div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-63436639320990149192019-02-03T12:48:00.000+00:002019-02-03T12:48:23.095+00:00Art Teacher Chic Day Dress: Isca Shirtdress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<i>*Disclaimer: I am not an art teacher. </i><br />
<br />
Hi everyone,<br />
<br />
It's been a while! I notice that a few of the bloggers I follow have cited 'Slow January' as a reason they haven't been posting much and I am on board with that.<br />
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I was away for most of December visiting friends and family in Canada and the US (my first Christmas abroad!) and have been taking January easy to recalibrate after the all the travel, hectic social schedule, and rich food and drink. I missed sewing a lot and was desperate to get back into it when we arrived back in the UK, but also felt down on my body image after all the indulgence of the weeks abroad. It's taken a while to feel motivated to make something for myself.<br />
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This is the <a href="https://www.marillawalkerpatterns.com/products/pdf-isca-shirt-dress-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Isca Shirtdress by Marilla Walker,</a> made in <a href="https://www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk/fabric-shop" target="_blank">Seasalt fabric</a> I purchased at their shop in Lewes when out antiquing with my mum last Autumn (on a side note she's not impressed with how many of the old treasure troves have been converted to coffee shops - is that gentrification or genericification?). It's a lovely soft medium-weight cotton twill with this abstract print that I wasn't sure I could carry off (much less match up) but for the most part I think I managed the pattern placement well. There is a little mirroring on one of the side seams, but otherwise I think I did well.<br />
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The fabric makes this dress perfect for about 75% of English weather as it's warm enough for Winter, but the dress is loose enough to stay cool in for the (slightly) warmer days of Spring and Autumn. I'm wearing it at the moment a lot with thick tights and a thermal t-shirt underneath. My challenge with this fabric (aside from the print) was that it was a little bulky for gathering.<br />
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The instructions called for one line of gathering stitches on the skirt pieces and I wish I'd done my usual three as this might have made the thicker fabric easier to gather evenly and hold their place - as it was I spent ages distributing the fabric and pinning, only for it all to get crushed into odd pleats by the presser foot. I wasn't bothered enough by it to redo it though. This was the only instruction I slightly disagree with and may just be due to fabric choice - the other steps are excellent. <br />
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I actually had the bodice of this dress finished back in late November, intending to take it away with me, but unfortunately my work schedule was so busy beforehand I never had a chance to finish, so it languished with finished sleeves pinned to the armholes on my mannequin for weeks before I summoned the forces to get on with it.<br />
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I'm really glad I did because actually this is the perfect dress to wear when you're feeling less body confident as it skims nicely but still has enough structure at the shoulders to look put together and neat. I've worn it loads since I finished it and find the roomy pockets so useful! I wasn't convinced they'd suit me at first but I'm won over.<br />
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The only changes I made were to make a 2.5cm FBA following the excellent fitting alteration instructions (I would never have figured out how to do it with those seamlines on my own!) and to cut 25cm off the hem to make it a more playful length. Next time I think I might leave it a smidgen longer at it's quite short at the back when I sit down! I could probably tweak the seams at upper bust to make it a closer fit at the shoulders too.<br />
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I would definitely recommend this pattern and can see myself making more of these - I love the easy breezy vibe contrasted with the smart collar and would love to try colour blocking or playing with stripes to highlight the diagonal seamlines more. I'm surprised this dress hasn't had more love on the blogosphere/ instasphere as it's great, and in this shorter length looks quite similar to the Deer and Doe Myosotis dress that was a huge hit for many sewists last year - except personally I find it a more unique and practical design. I might take inspiration and try it with a mandarin collar someday though!<br />
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I leave you with this close-up of my mug which is intended to show how well my earrings (if you can spot them!) match the print. The buttons are from my stash inherited from my boyfriend's grandma - I actually had a choice of three colourways, and can't see myself needing to go shopping for buttons any time soon!<br />
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Here's to more blogging soon - I have a backlog of things I made last year that I need to find the time and daylight to get photos of. I'm happily wearing them all though so at least when they make it up I'll be able to give a comprehensive review!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-53196472207073329212018-11-18T13:45:00.001+00:002018-11-18T13:52:20.510+00:00Lander Pants and #SewingLeftovers Mimi G Turtleneck<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi everyone,<br />
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I have a twofer for you today!<br />
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I'm wearing my second (but certainly not last) pair of <a href="https://shop.truebias.com/product/lander-pant-short" target="_blank">Lander Pants</a> and a modified <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/67670" target="_blank">Mimi G Simplicity 1283</a> Turtleneck. Both of these projects are kind of old (turtleneck finished in March, and Landers in June) but have done solid wardrobe duty and <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/07/make-nine-progress-and-summer-sewing.html" target="_blank">tick off some #MakeNine aims</a> so deserve their own post!<br />
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Here I am wearing my newly finished Mimi G turtleneck in Japan (paired with my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/12/i-lander-pants-very-wearable-muslin-in.html" target="_blank">first Lander Pants</a>) back in March.<br />
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A quick #MakeNine update: I've nearly finished my Mimi G Simplicity 1283 flares and have a Marilla Walker Isca shirtdress (rather than shirt) cut out. The only projects remaining on my plan are my FehrTrade cycling gear which I'm not sure I'll get around to now, and think it might be too unseasonal to make the ruffle tee (although maybe if I make in something fancy it could be a festive top?).<br />
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The turtleneck I'm proud to say is a #SewingLeftovers project using jersey remaining from my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/10/trio-of-tees.html" target="_blank">gift t-shirt making kick </a>last year. I made a few modifications - I removed the zip from the back neck for personal preference reasons (plus I'm rubbish at inserting zips neatly into jersey).<br />
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Also I didn't want the cropped length so blended from waist down with the <a href="https://www.sbccpatterns.com/products/tonic-tee" target="_blank">free SBCC Tonic Tee</a> (which I've never actually made up). The top still came up a little short (I believe SBCC is drafted for petites, and I'm a very average height of 5ft6) but it's a decent length for tucking in. I also had to make shorter sleeves due to fabric limitations, but I'm generally a fan of half and 3/4 length sleeve styles.<br />
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I didn't have the easiest time in terms of sizing with this pattern - my measurements landed me in the middle but I bought the larger size range pack due to reviews that the pattern came up quite tight. I picked my size for the top based on my bust measurement but the shoulders and neckline came out large on me, and I ended up gradually trimming bits off and fitting as I went til I sized down to smallest size in pack.<br />
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This is better but not perfect, and despite still being a bit big in the neck and shoulders might now be a bit tight across the chest. I prefer to double over the roll of the turtleneck to make is sit a bit tighter and balance the proportions.<br />
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The Lander Pants are made from denim purchased in Nippori Fabric Town in Tokyo. I took the obligatory tourist shot of course and ended up with with loads of great fabric, but I've not dared cut into the beautiful traditionally-pattern stuff yet. </div>
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I don't think the denim is bought is actually Japanese though sadly. The colourway was <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/2017/11/20/true-bias-lander-pants/" target="_blank">inspired by Helen's version</a> (although is not a very faithful colour copy!), and I went for high contrast topstitching but hope this doesn't come across as IKEA branded...Luckily I had a very close match of regular thread for the tricky areas like buttonholes that my vintage machine can't handle in topstitching thread. </div>
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I was intending to make the cropped version of these kecks but on trying them on I liked the unhemmed length and embraced the fraying. </div>
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I made a slight error when grading waistband seams and was worried I'd weakened the seam that was keeping my trews up by cutting too close to the stitching. I decided to freestyle some reinforcing stitches from the outside to strengthen these areas. I tried to make them look like intentional distressing but actually they blend in pretty well and hopefully they'll continue to hold up!</div>
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I love this version almost as much as my first pair (although I think maybe my black version is a little more flattering around the stomach). They've certainly had a lot of wear and I'm keen to make the full-length version in a burgundy or forest green at some point.<br />
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I'll leave you with a shot of the rear fit. I've not made any modifications to this pattern for fit, although maybe I should get realistic and add some room for my belly for the next version. I might also add a line of edgestitching close to the button fly to reinforce that area as it does pull when I sit down.<br />
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Until next time,<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-71856099680522070932018-10-20T17:04:00.004+01:002018-10-20T17:04:43.908+01:00Another Japanese Sewing Book Make: Clean and Natural Tucked DressHi everyone,<br />
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Thanks for the comments on <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/10/la-maison-victor-solange-and-some.html" target="_blank">my last post</a> - there were lots of helpful tips to help improve the dress and many thoughts about the state of sewing magazines. The fact that there is so little decent published editorial (other than apparently <i>Threads</i>, which I must track down) does reinvigorate me to blog more. I'm no expert but I love sharing my opinions with others who are interested in sewing and reading about others' sewing experiences, and being inspired by their style, fabric, and pattern choices! Another thing that does get my creative juices flowing is listening to podcasts, so at least in this area there is a wealth of sewing-related audio content - I particularly enjoy <i>Love to Sew</i> and have just begun listening to <i>Dressed</i>. Any other recommendations - let me know!<br />
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Anyway on to my latest make. This dress is inspired by attempts to use up vintage fabric in my stash - this piece is from the '80s I expect. I'm not sure of the fibre content but would hazard a guess that it's a cotton/viscose blend because of its softness and drape. I'd had a 70s-style wrap dress in mind for it for ages, but it's a really narrow piece - only 90cm across - so didn't work with a lot of patterns I have.<br />
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In the end I decided I wanted something easy-fitting and turned to my collection of Japanese pattern books because Japanese fabrics are usually quite narrow, and I just about managed to eke out the Tucked Dress from <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2014/06/24/book-review-clean-and-natural/" target="_blank"><i>Clean and Natural</i></a> in the largest size. I love the sample image and would love to try one one in chambray one day - with the turban too of course!<br />
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Technically I shouldn't have fit this (silly me for not checking the sizing charts before buying - Japanese bookshops are very seductive) as the largest size is for a 35" bust and I'm usually 38.5 or 39"! The hips were OK but the largest waist size was an inch smaller too. Luckily this dress style has plenty of design ease so I knew the waist wouldn't be a problem, but I was a little worried about the bust still. I consoled myself with the thought that I'm trying out using patterns sized with the high bust measurement at the moment and 35" works for this, so I could always do an FBA if needed.<br />
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As there are no darts in this style, just the waist tucks, I decided that instead of making a simple pull-on dress I would add a centre-back zip in case having a chest 4" larger than intended made the dress difficult to get on. A quick try-on of my traced pieces showed I should be able to wear the dress without any pulling, so I just went ahead with the straight size with the addition of the zip.<br />
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Next time actually I wouldn't bother with the zip, as it turns out I can get it on without needing it after all (should have tested that at basting stage!). Plus my centred zip just isn't very good - unfortunately the zipper pull keeps wanting to peek through, and the folds of fabric on either side are a little wobbly in places! Not hugely noticeable though and it's all good technique practice in a relatively low-stakes make. A couple of weeks ago <a href="http://almondrock.co.uk/wild-roses-vogue-8469/" target="_blank">Amy of Almond Rock mentioned that she finds centred zips tricky to get neat</a> as well, so at least I know I'm in good company!<br />
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I didn't make any other changes to the dress, although I considered shortening it. I'm quite enjoying floating around at this length - my friend told me I looked very '<a href="https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=abigail%27s+party&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjj8KLFrZXeAhUSTcAKHeHQBW0Q_AUIDygC&biw=1225&bih=599" target="_blank">Abigail's Party</a>' in it which I'm taking as a compliment, plus it makes it different enough from my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2015/03/frankendress-annence.html" target="_blank">autumnal Anna dress</a>.<br />
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I enjoyed making this - I mentioned in my last post finding the <i>La Maison Victor </i>translated instructions a bit frustrating. With this dress I only translated the text that identified pattern pieces - as the illustrations are so good and the construction so simple I gave myself the freedom to just do whatever made the most sense to me, which was great!<br />
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I did an efficiency drive and after stay-stitching where needed sewed up all the pieces separately before pressing and overlocking them all, and only piecing them together at the end, rather than the usual 'working in units' approach. It seemed to work - although I do wish I'd ease-stitched the sleeve caps when inserting in the round as there were a couple of puckers I could have avoided. My only other annoyance is using interfacing around the neckline which is a too heavy for the fluidity of the fabric, but hopefully it'll soften up in the wash.<br />
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Having this lovely autumnal dress has made me want to make more dresses after a bit of a separates drive this year (many of which still need to be blogged). I was planning to make the Persephone Pants next in the queue but am also loving all the dramatic bishop-sleeved '70s maxi dresses out there at the moment and feeling like I want a piece of the action! I'm drowning in inspiration at the moment but without much time to take action - I'm seriously considering booking a 'sewcation' so I can get down to making my seasonal sewing plans come true and finally sew up the merino jersey I've been hoarding...<br />
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How are your seasonal sewing plans going? More podcast recommendations welcome!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-11051638871970801492018-10-07T13:13:00.001+01:002018-10-07T13:13:55.410+01:00La Maison Victor Solange and Some Thoughts on Sewing Magazines<style type="text/css">
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Hello! These aren't the greatest photos and this isn't the greatest look for me to be honest, but I felt I needed to get this dress blogged so here we are!<br />
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A few weeks ago I made the Solange Dress from the first edition of <a href="https://www.lamaisonvictor.com/en/" target="_blank">La Maison Victor </a>to be published in the UK (back in July 2017 I believe?). I was quite excited about making this dress; I even took an instagram snap of my project materials artfully gathered together ready for sewing, but the end result is decidedly 'meh' for me.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">© La Maison Victor</td></tr>
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I decided to copy to look of the sample garment and cut into some stripy ponte bought in Japan (I also squeezed out a <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/09/sewingleftovers-winslow-culottes-burda.html" target="_blank">Burda top with the remnants here</a>). However, what I decided to ignore at the time but can see plainly now is that even on the model the pockets add unwanted bulk around the middle, and on my less-than-lithe midsection that unflattering effect is even more pronounced. I've barely worn the dress since I made it because I feel so self-conscious in it.<br />
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I don't think it's a very flattering cut, but I'm sure I didn't get the fit quite right either. My measurements put me in body size 14, with my upper bust at 12 and full bust at 16. I did a bit of blending between sizes at the front but made the back 14 all over, but decided to do a bit of finangling with the sleeves so that they would fit into the armscye after the alterations. I’m not sure this worked too well as the sleeves like to crease when wearing, and the bust darts sit too high for me (although this does seem to be where they’re designed to sit from the line drawings, but it just looks a bit silly on me).</div>
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The pattern has a gently shaped back seam which I nearly missed when cutting out, but I could have used this to get a closer fit for my sway back. The centre back seam is to allow you to insert an exposed zip, which ended up being a fussy process because I couldn't quite work out the instructions so just guessed it and left off the ribbon facing step.<br />
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To be honest I wish I hadn't bothered with it at all, as it creates wobbles in my seam and back neckline, but I have a habit of doggedly following the instructions sometimes even if I don't really want the finished result. Maybe it feels like cheating not to do it? I also feel that sometimes you have to face your fears in sewing and conquer tricky steps, or you'll spend all your time avoiding certain processes. That said, this didn't turn out great and I wish I'd practised on a sample instead!<br />
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You can't see in these photos but one small gripe about my cutting out of this dress is that I didn't think about stripe-matching the pockets, and I easily could have with the amount of fabric I had. I just thought they'd never be seen, so wanted to conserve as much leftover fabric for another project as possible. But actually the pockets do gape when sitting down so lack of matching is really obvious.<br />
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Again, as with the zip, realistically the pockets probably take away more than they add to the look of the garment so the easiest option would be to leave them off altogether! I have my hands in them in most of these pictures as that's the only way to keep them under control - otherwise you're forever smoothing them down to prevent your hips looking even lumpier than normal!<br />
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This was one of those projects that ends up being a lot more complex than it might seem at first glance. For starters I had a few headscratching moments where I couldn’t quite tell what the instructions were asking me to do. I guess something got lost in translation sewing-speak wise but I finally realised that ‘add a stitch next to the seam’ meant ‘add a line of stitching’ which meant ‘understitch’. Got there in the end!</div>
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I didn’t find it very fun to make either as I was expecting an easy palate-cleanser of a make but the instructions had a lot of fussy treatments and markings, more like what you’d expect from a woven garment than a simple semi-fitted t-shirt dress. Some of the processes really went awry - for example I found sewing the recommended woven neck binding around the ponte neckline made my twin needle skip stitches right where the topstitching is most visible! </div>
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I've only worn this dress a couple of times since I made it, and I'm not sure if I'll keep it as it doesn't make me feel good. It's a shame to waste nice fabric that I bought on holiday, but it wasn't expensive and it's not unique so at least I have that consolation. I have more Japanese fabric in lovely traditional prints, but I'll take this as a lesson that I need to match them more carefully with the garment patterns and make a toile first to avoid disappointment!<br />
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If you've read this far through my rant, <b>thank you</b>! I'm sure we've all been there with projects that just don't work out. There were some other patterns I quite liked in that issue of La Maison Victor but I'll take a break before going back to see if they're worth toile-ing through. I haven't bought any subsequent issues.<br />
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I used to love sewing magazines, but nowadays I'm a lot more selective and only buy if there are at least two patterns I'd consider making, and usually this means going straight for Burda. There isn't much in the way of written editorial in Burda (usually just one article, giving context for a special pattern) which is a shame as I do love to read about sewing - that's why I still blog and enjoy reading others' blogs!<br />
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However I prefer it to buying the other sewing magazines like Love Sewing or Simply Sewing which have fewer patterns (that are less to my taste) as a lot of their editorial seems to be repurposed from other sewists' blogs that I'd have read for free online anyway! La Maison Victor seems to combine the weak spots of both magazines - as few patterns as Love Sewing et al plus the lack of written content that Burda has. I'm not saying I wouldn't buy it again, but it'd only be if the patterns were truly inspiring.<br />
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What are your thoughts on sewing magazines? Do you subscribe or pick and choose? Or avoid altogether?<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-82741804691785568662018-09-30T13:10:00.001+01:002018-09-30T13:10:20.845+01:00Remembering Summer in my (slightly) modified Mimi G Jessica Dress <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsgKPYXyFAiCMWjBYZRYFAOZNFM5I4IxLSOt969z5ci4iR63fi1qlnPfyUruXesNuXdrHJjbiHXSxk2wDKS9qWhHwoIQ_yfViNupoXW0AHPmumEzTqOHsnNCBgXhIUoDc9oI3ul-z8xzi/s1600/IMG_2771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsgKPYXyFAiCMWjBYZRYFAOZNFM5I4IxLSOt969z5ci4iR63fi1qlnPfyUruXesNuXdrHJjbiHXSxk2wDKS9qWhHwoIQ_yfViNupoXW0AHPmumEzTqOHsnNCBgXhIUoDc9oI3ul-z8xzi/s640/IMG_2771.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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It's properly Autumn here in England now, but I've still got a few summer projects to share. Typically, I only finished this dress in time for a couple of weeks' worth of wear before it got too cold, but I'm pretty pleased with it. All these pictures are taken at the dress's debut outing on holiday in the Dordogne. Sorry for the picture overload - I wanted to take advantage of the beautiful scenery, especially at the magical Jardins de Marqueyssac.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhJA6KsTcCNkirHxomF1UHucGovGAa3SjwseJy5Z0mqQyVezthzkIhyMsa1mFG8PomflR1CN9QDrWoZ235wiDuZt8e27nPpyMrd7Yta2C7K46505-9kj_-SX3bBOwqihVnFIukSI8L6lC/s1600/IMG_20180826_152555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhJA6KsTcCNkirHxomF1UHucGovGAa3SjwseJy5Z0mqQyVezthzkIhyMsa1mFG8PomflR1CN9QDrWoZ235wiDuZt8e27nPpyMrd7Yta2C7K46505-9kj_-SX3bBOwqihVnFIukSI8L6lC/s640/IMG_20180826_152555.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I wish I'd finished it earlier as it's the perfect floaty weight for the hot summer we had, but all my plans had a bit of a setback with my ankle issues. I'm glad it still got some wear!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85-XPN-8X5T7kL9CtQxAp7UjAn8Mi-pjT9ZDzYMZCAXliVCqARRYh0G3no6Zbs3gfF-Fb7FSVCZ0-qyHEqJBP-S3q7afE2IiGTSE2NjhvGTF7bSfwlKQ0yjFvZde9Pbk9nR44Ll6jovBB/s1600/IMG_2766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85-XPN-8X5T7kL9CtQxAp7UjAn8Mi-pjT9ZDzYMZCAXliVCqARRYh0G3no6Zbs3gfF-Fb7FSVCZ0-qyHEqJBP-S3q7afE2IiGTSE2NjhvGTF7bSfwlKQ0yjFvZde9Pbk9nR44Ll6jovBB/s640/IMG_2766.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
I particularly love the pairing of pattern and fabric. This cotton lawn from The Man Outside Sainsbury's, <a href="https://didyoumakethat.com/2017/09/14/a-fabric-buyers-guide-to-walthamstow-market/" target="_blank">made famous by Karen of Did You Make That?</a> My one spree to his stall in Walthamstow Market at the beginning of the year has served me very well! This lawn was £7 a metre I believe and apparently Liberty, but there wasn't anything printed on the selvedge. It is good quality and a lovely 70s-ish floral print though, so I'm more than happy with it.<br />
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The pattern is the <a href="http://mimigstyle.com/free-jessica-pattern-and-sew-along/" target="_blank">*free* Jessica dress</a> from Mimi G. It's a lovely pattern and was very on-trend this summer. It was a pretty easy make and the instructions were decent, although you do have to mark your own buttonhole and pocket placement. I also didn't follow the order of construction to the letter, preferring instead to leave any hemming to the end in case I wanted to alter the length, but in the end I kept the skirt length as drafted.<br />
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I made a couple of modifications to this dress including a 1" FBA. However, after making up the bodice I realised it still wouldn’t overlap in middle, even after adding some extra room. My on-the fly fix was to create an additional button band for the bodice - luckily I had spare fabric left over. I prefer the look anyway. The band was 25.5cm in length and worked out perfectly for a neat turn at the top edge. </div>
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If I made this again I would graft the bodice button band onto the skirt's button band so that doesn't have a break at the waist seam. I'd have to alter the order of construction and, for a neater and more efficient finish inside I should make some modifications to the shape of the facing at the bodice centre front so there isn't any doubling up there. </div>
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To further tweak the fit I tried on bodice and took in a small wedge at side seams under the arms blending to nothing halfway down and curved in the seam under the bust for a closer fit towards the waist. Annoyingly, after all that faffing with fit I was a little careless with the placement of the straps and they're not quite symmetrical where they're anchored at the back- but not so off that anyone would notice! </div>
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My only slight issue with the pattern is that it instructs you to make horizontal buttonholes, which for me means a bit of pulling at centre front. I'd do vertical buttonholes in future for a sturdier and more symmetrical line down centre front. Other than that it's a great pattern which is relatively easy to tweak for fit, and hopefully I'll get more wear out of this dress next year! </div>
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NorseOtter xx</div>
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This outfit is another #sewingleftovers project I made while recovering from my sprained
ankle. This blog post also contains thoughts on gift sewing and the pros and cons of being a medium size - settle in for the ride! Late last year I made a pair of grey crepe full-length <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/winslow-culottes/" target="_blank">Winslow Culottes</a> for a friend’s birthday, based on measurements she’d
emailed over to me. Being fitted at the
waist but otherwise loose and drapey enough to not require serious
fitting I thought this would be OK, and forged ahead and made them
up, leaving only the hem to do after getting her to try them on next
time I saw her.<br />
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I had been in the habit of buying a pattern specifically for the person I'm making the garment for (rather than using something tried and tested from my stash) and making their
gift as the first run with the pattern, but this time I
decided to <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/02/swishy-winslows.html" target="_blank">make myself a pair</a> using black crepe in the midi length so
that I had a good understanding of how the pattern came together and
would hopefully produce a better garment for the final product for my
friend.
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While this was a
great idea, what I’d done was to cut the printed pattern full size and simply fold in the sizes to cut my
slightly smaller measurements, which meant when I was cutting for her
garment I accidentally cut a back leg in the width for my size (I’d
managed to fold back out all the shaped parts, but as the legs on the
Winslows are straight lines I’d overlooked it).
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I was so frustrated
and had to order yet more crepe to recut the mistaken leg, and then
when my friend tried the almost finished culottes on they ended being
significantly too large in the waist – the only part that really
needed to fit! I managed to rescue them by removing and reducing the
length of the waistband and folding the box pleats a little deeper in
even increments all around to match the new measurements, but never
managed to get quite such a neat finish on the zip insertion the
second time around.
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All this backstory
is to say I had the back legs in my size cut out for the Winslows, so
decided that I might as well make them up, as when there are no
fitting snags it is a fairly easy project with lots of straight lines
that hopefully my left foot would be able to handle without issues. I
didn’t want to be too matchy-matchy with my friend so decided to
make the knee-length version as a more summery garment (which means I
still have a bit of this grey crepe stuff kicking around!).
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This came together
pretty quickly and without issue, except I managed to attach the zip a hair too close to the teeth which makes zipping up and
unzipping a bit of struggle when it comes together over the waist.
I’ve been pairing it with my gingham <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/09/summer-uniform-sewingleftovers-roberts.html" target="_blank">#sewingleftovers Roberts top</a>,
which gives it a bit of a summer school uniform vibe. Hopefully not
in too creepy a way!<br />
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I don’t love this
crepe if I’m honest – I was sewing to a deadline for the gift
garment (which obviously got thrown out of the window with the
fitting issues) so had ordered online from Minerva crafts thinking
this "luxury crepe" stuff might be similar in feel to the crepe rio I made my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/03/hemlock-and-cigarettes.html" target="_blank">SewOver It Cigarette Pants </a>from – but sadly it’s a bit more shiny
and static-y than that and isn’t what I would have chosen if I’d
had the time to go shopping in person. The black crepe I made my own
Winslows from is the same stuff in a different colourway and again
it’s OK but I don’t love it – which is a shame as it wasn’t
cheap!
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I recently read
<a href="https://sewrendipity.com/2018/08/12/hand-sewn-gifts-5-reasons-why-you-should-and-5-reasons-not-to-bother/" target="_blank">Sewrendipity’s blog on sewing for other people </a>and I think I have
to declare myself done with unselfish sewing for a while – last
Winter I ended up with such a backlog of projects that didn’t go
smoothly or ended up needing more work for one reason or another, and
I ended up not enjoying myself and feeling dissatisfied with the
final product. If you stack up the cost of patterns, fabric, notions, hours spent getting supplies and then actually making the thing it's genuinely mad not to just pop to the shop and get a readymade whatever like everyone else! So for the sake of my sanity I'm parking handmade gifts for the foreseeable. </div>
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I decided to make this top (Burda 08/2017 Top 112) up with the leftovers from a disappointing Maison Victor Solange dress which I've made but not had the heart to photograph yet, as it makes me look like a sack of potatoes! I cut this out after cutting all the pieces for the Solange and whipped it up after that was made, using the overlocker and twin needle for the sleeves and hem. I made this up very quickly and only skipped adding batting to the neck roll (as I didn’t have any) and it’s worked out pretty well for stripe-matching, although I think I missed a notch somewhere to help me align the sleeves. These are basically positioned at right angles to a rectangle of fabric, so very easy to sew but worth making sure you have the notches to ensure they’re positioned correctly.</div>
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I had to take quite a bit of length out of the sleeves for the pattern pieces to fit (and roughly match) on the fabric I had remaining, but I think it looks pretty decent. I quite like a half or ¾ sleeve and this often seems to happen to me – it did with <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/03/hemlock-and-cigarettes.html" target="_blank">my Hemlock tee</a> and actually in the end both tops are quite similar.</div>
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This Burda top ended up being a lot more oversized and boxy than I’d realised! I don’t mind it despite it turning out a bit bigger than expected, and having a slightly too wide neckline that exposes a little bra strappage. If I were to make it again I’d size down. I made it in a straight size 44, which puts me right in the middle of Burda sizes and means I can make up the plus designs too. Nice to have the run of the magazine!</div>
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I was reading ‘I Sew Therefore I Am’ and <a href="https://www.isewthereforeiam.com/vogue-1501/" target="_blank">her review of the Rachel Comey Vogue dress</a> and how frustrating it is to be in between sizes for the Big 4, and I totally empathise. I find it very strange the way they divide the sizes with no overlap, as presumably the majority of women are in the middle section so it would make more sense to have another sizing range that gives you more options in the middle rather than having to place yourself as ‘large’ or ‘small’. Sizing generally is a bit weird in that sense – there are so many shades of ‘small’ and ‘large’ but only ever one ‘medium’. I’d call myself a medium size (and often find myself labelled as such in sizing charts) but it is weird when sometimes your measurements stick you on one side or other of that – it’s such a fine line between medium and small, and medium and large!<br />
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If you've stuck with me this far, thanks for reading! What are your thoughts on sizing and sewing for others?<br />
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NorseOtter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-34285111259147558012018-09-02T18:41:00.000+01:002018-09-02T18:47:33.915+01:00Summer Uniform: #SewingLeftovers Roberts Top and Flint Shorts<style type="text/css">
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Hi everyone!<br />
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This is one of the things I made while nursing my sprained ankle injury, so isn’t my best work by any means! It's the <a href="https://www.marillawalkerpatterns.com/products/pdf-roberts-collection-sewing-dress-making-pattern" target="_blank">Marilla Walker Roberts Top </a>(from the same collection that I made <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/04/well-travelled-roberts-dungarees.html" target="_blank">my dungarees </a>- and I'm not done with that PDF set yet!). </div>
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I wanted to get on with using up some of the fabric that has been hanging around in the
cupboard for ever, and this gingham polycotton remnant left over from my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2016/06/chequered-success-colette-pastille.html" target="_blank">hacked Pastille Dress</a> (follow the link for bonus laughs with my Pam Hogg-esque yellow hair) seemed like a good candidate – it was only £2.99
per metre to begin with and had served its primary purpose.
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I made a straight
size 4 without any FBA adjustments (I know I should every time, but
can’t always be bothered). I swear I tried to create interest on
the back panels but cutting them at a 90 degree angle, but I guess
with squares that effectively sets you back where you started – I
should have cut on the bias for a more interesting effect.
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This was a nice
simple make really and I could have made it even simpler by not
bothering with the french seaming – especially as I did that thing
where you match the edges rather than the sewing line so managed to
introduce some unnecessary misalignment!</div>
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The biggest
challenge with this make was sewing it up with my left foot. With my
right out of action and elevated on a chair it was a struggle to sew
comfortably and accurately, but I had to make something or risk going
stir-crazy!
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The finished result
is a little tight over the bust and has some wobbles in the
stitching, but as a little #sewingleftovers project to save my sanity
I’m glad I did it. Plus it served me pretty well in the heat as an
airy little top that doesn’t really need ironing.
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I wore it loads this summer paired with some more #sewingleftovers <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/winslow-culottes/" target="_blank">Winslow Culottes</a> (to be posted soon) and these <a href="https://megannielsen.com/products/flint" target="_blank">Megan Nielsen Flint</a> shorts which I actually made late last summer but it quickly got too cold to take any snaps of them. I made them for a late September getaway to Croatia and loved wearing them as a little bit of pin-up chic as a tourist. However they didn't work out quite so well on the beach - I put them on over a damp cossie and managed to stain my thighs blue when the wetness of the swimsuit made the dye run!<br />
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Other than that they're great - I made these before I made my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/12/fancy-festive-outfit-flint-pants-and.html" target="_blank">over-fitting errors for my silk pair,</a> so they fit quite nicely. They're maybe a little snug over the rear but as the denim (originally used for my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2016/07/classic-ginger-jeans.html" target="_blank">classic Ginger jeans </a>- warning, more nuclear blonde vibes going on with the barnet in those old shots too!) has a bit of stretch they're quite comfortable. While they were made last summer they're a nice precursor to the <a href="http://www.magnificentthread.com/2018/04/introducing-sewing-leftovers.html" target="_blank">#sewingleftovers project</a>, a bandwagon I'm very happy to jump on. It does feel good to use stuff up!<br />
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I'll leave you with the cheeky shot below - back soon with more #sewingleftover goodness, summer uniforms (before it becomes ridiculously late to post) and a catch-up on how I did with my summer sewing plans. </div>
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Until then, take care!</div>
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NorseOtter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-27709743370726401882018-07-13T15:22:00.000+01:002018-07-13T15:22:50.037+01:00Make Nine Progress and Summer Sewing PlansHi!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMwgvhoZ8hdlE-q6KXzNNcbjDHA4jlHEW54IWSnNfMyTiYZ-00lOWChOMeHudVWwUxiIMa86Pu529ZRTb-u_0YCKYGKA9otcaib8-mrCMnvYwD_8ZNiK7kCDuolgnrzfPh5mQeCaEv67G/s1600/collage_makenine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMwgvhoZ8hdlE-q6KXzNNcbjDHA4jlHEW54IWSnNfMyTiYZ-00lOWChOMeHudVWwUxiIMa86Pu529ZRTb-u_0YCKYGKA9otcaib8-mrCMnvYwD_8ZNiK7kCDuolgnrzfPh5mQeCaEv67G/s640/collage_makenine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Check out my hideous #MakeNine collage! I'm pleased to say I've achieved 5 out of my planned 9 makes, and we're just over halfway through the year, so that seems like decent progress!<br />
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Here they are:<br />
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<a href="https://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/06/popover-colette-negroni-in-linen-plaid.html" target="_blank">Popover Shirt for Angus </a> (and t<a href="https://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/04/freesewing-simon-shirt-fun-experiment.html" target="_blank">he wearable toile</a>)<br />
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<a href="https://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/04/well-travelled-roberts-dungarees.html" target="_blank">Marilla Walker Roberts Dungarees and Basic Instinct Tee (in same post)</a><br />
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The Marilla Walker Isca Shirt and Mimi G Flares I'm not prioritising to get ticked off my list until Autumn really, but I should probably have a go at the FehrTrade Surf to Summit cycling top in the short-sleeved version while it's still summer, and the Ruffle Tee from Self Assembly Required too as I imagine it'd be hard to layer once it gets chillier.<br />
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If you can read my terrible text overlay you may notice a couple of things are done but unblogged - so why this post instead of getting my Mimi G Turtleneck and True Bias Lander Pants published? Well, I've been recovering from an sprained ankle which has not only set me back in my modelling (hence no photos of recent makes) but is also slowing down my sewing output and it is SO FRUSTRATING.<br />
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I have finally begun to manage using the machine again with a few low stakes #sewingleftovers projects, but using my left foot instead of my usual right has been messing with my accuracy! I'll post the results soon as my ankle should just about be stable enough to pose on. Hopefully I'll be back to full capacity soon as I have missed my machine terribly and have loads of summery makes planned. Here are a few things I'd like to get made in the next few weeks:<br />
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<a href="http://mimigstyle.com/free-jessica-pattern-and-sew-along/" target="_blank">Mimi G Jessica Dress</a> (free!)<br />
<a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern" target="_blank">Kalle Shirtdress</a><br />
<a href="https://sewladidavintage.com/shop/sewing-patterns/french-gypsy-dress/" target="_blank">Sew La Di Da French Gypsy Dress</a><br />
A loose floaty boxy dress from one of my Japanese Pattern Books<br />
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank">Persephone Pants/ Shorts</a><br />
<a href="https://www.patternfantastique.com/products/copy-of-terra-pant-302-printed-pattern-1" target="_blank">Terra Pants</a><br />
<b>Images for all of these are on my <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/norseotter/summer-sewing/" target="_blank">dedicated Pinterest board here.</a> </b><br />
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I'm also continuing what I started while injured and planning on making lots of #SewingLeftovers camis and tops from free patterns around the web, using patterns such as: <a href="http://www.hoopesparkstudios.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Sewloft-Diana-Camisole.pdf" target="_blank">Sew Loft Diana Cami</a>, <a href="https://thefoldline.com/patterns/hello-sailor-top/" target="_blank">The Foldline's Hello Sailor Top</a>, <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/sorbetto" target="_blank">Colette Sorbetto</a> (sans pleat), <a href="https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/pdf-sewing-patterns/12-haut-robe-bailen.html" target="_blank">Pauline Alice Bailen Slip</a>, <a href="https://www.howtodofashion.com/no-00-danmark-home" target="_blank">How to Do Fashion 00 Danmark</a><br />
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I have fabric for all of these projects bar the French Gypsy Dress, so let's see how I get on!<br />
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How have your MakeNine or other sewing plans been getting along? Do you like to set long term sewing goals or plan your makes in small chunks? I'm definitely someone who likes to do a bit of both - it's nice to have flexibility for when you feel inspired or are captivated by the latest pattern releases!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-16530086912219786872018-06-30T11:12:00.000+01:002018-06-30T11:12:24.725+01:00Cropped Kalle Shirt in Vintage Fabric<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I finally made the Closet Case <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern" target="_blank">Kalle</a>! I've wanted to make this for ages but was put off as it came out after I'd already treated myself to the Deer and Doe <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/29-melilot-shirt-pattern.html" target="_blank">Melilot</a>, which is very similar but a bit more slim-cut and has fewer variations. I wasn't sure if I definitely needed space in my wardrobe for both, and even attempted to <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/06/sewtogetherforsummer-melilex-dress.html" target="_blank">hack a dress version</a> of the Melilot inspired by the Kalle.<br />
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In the end I justified having both by asking my brother to get me one as a present. Funny how we give ourselves these self-imposed stumbling blocks sometimes, isn't it? This is the cropped version of the Kalle with band collar, concealed button band, and no pockets. I cut one pocket, but decided against it after playing with placement.<br />
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This was quite an enjoyable sew and looks fun in this fabric - some gifted medium-weight vintage cotton that is perhaps a bit on the stiff side but means the drama of the shape is emphasised. I'm keen to try it again in a fabric with more drape - I can see myself making all versions!<br />
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The one thing I struggled with was making up the concealed button band - I had to have a couple of goes and it looks a little messy on the inside! I think it's not as clear as it could be that when you're making the buttonholes you go through two layers of fabric, not just where you've made the markings. Obvious to some I'm sure, but not me...<br />
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I used the ugliest buttons I could find in my stash as I knew they'd be functional only, although they're slightly bigger than called for so distort the band a little bit and meant I had to make the buttonholes a bit bigger after I initially sewed them. I found a plain white button for the collar stand that I think blends in with the colours of the print (no-one need ever know how mismatched the rest are!).<br />
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My band collar I think doesn't look quite as tall as I expected - I don't know if I accidentally used the wrong seam allowance or something, but everything else seems to have lined up nicely so I'm not sure. It also seems like it might be a bit loose - not sure if I should size down for a closer fit on my scrawny neck? I definitely need to work on improving the buttonholes I make in my collar stands - they always end up being really messy!<br />
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There's a lot to love with this pattern and I'm keen to make all the variations - especially now it's warm here in the UK so I can make the most of the loose fit. I want to try a shirt collared dress version next and have some lovely navy cupro for it, but am a bit worried about the looseness around the neck - perhaps I should size down in that area then grade up from the bust down? Fitting experts do chip in!<br />
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FYI I'm wearing the Kalle here with <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2015/12/ginger-jeans-mark-two.html" target="_blank">my first denim pair of Ginger Jeans</a>! I'd not worn these for a while as I made them with a cheap zip that kept coming undone whenever I sat down, but a little while ago I bit the bullet, ripped out the waistband and redid the fly with a new zip. It was a fair bit of work, but it's never a bad thing to get a bit more practice putting zips in, and now I've rescued the jeans and can get a lot more wear out of them! They're still not perfect; I think the top edge of the jeans got stretched out in handling so there's a little bit of gathering when putting the waistband back on, but it's not too noticeable.<br />
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Have you rescued any makes recently, or given in to a pattern desire? I've just got my other brother to get me some belated gifts of the Persephone pants (which I was holding back on because I have the Landers but still wanted) and the Terra Pants. So many good things to make! Hope I find the time for it all.<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-39540946015148076312018-06-09T12:46:00.003+01:002018-06-09T12:46:55.764+01:00#SewTogetherforSummer Famous Frocks Liza Wrap Dress <br />
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Hi everyone!<br />
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Here is my #sewtogetherforsummer wrap dress! I was tempted to make the Trina Dress as I love the <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/01/trina-dress-made-for-very-good-friend.html" target="_blank">version I made for a friend</a>, but have been meaning to try a jersey wrap dress for a while and had 3 metres of this thin black floral jersey picked up on a whim for £9 in total from <a href="http://www.misan.co.uk/misanwest/" target="_blank">Misan Textiles</a> in Goldhawk Road that I wanted out of the stash!<br />
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The pattern is the Liza Wrap Dress (inspired by Liza Minnelli) from the <a href="https://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/famous-frocks-the-little-black-dress.html" target="_blank"><i>Famous Frocks: The Little Black Dress Book</i></a> (I've previously made an <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2017/12/fancy-festive-outfit-flint-pants-and.html" target="_blank">Anjelica Huston blouse from the same book</a>). I made the long-sleeved variation (the original design is sleeveless) but kept the straight skirt rather than hacking to flare it as instructed.<br />
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Alterations: I decided to make the size S bodice based on my high bust measurement with a 1" FBA (there was a 3" difference, but I read in knit bodices you should add less than you would for a woven FBA to ensure you still have negative ease), and M sized skirt. During the weekend that Craftsy offered 48 hours of free access to all its online workshops I watched the <a href="https://blog.cashmerette.com/2017/11/craftsy-full-bust-adjustment-for-any-pattern.html" target="_blank">Cashmerette FBA tutorial</a> for knits on repeat, and used this <a href="https://blog.cashmerette.com/2014/04/do-full-bust-adjustment-and-add-dart-on.html" target="_blank">helpful blog post</a> to refer back to when doing the adjustments for real.<br />
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Using this fitting method seems to have worked well, but I think it may have affected what size waist ties I should have cut, as they don't reach the top edge of the wrap bodice as I feel they should, and this looks a bit awkward having an untethered straight edge poking out!<br />
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To fix this I just tuck the edge in when I'm wearing it so there's a smooth diagonal line from the bodice to the tie, it's not very noticeable in this print. Next time I'd avoid this by cutting the ties after making up the bodice to ensure that they are as wide as the side bodice edge.<br />
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This was the second time working with a border print (first was <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2015/03/frankendress-annence.html" target="_blank">my raw silk Anna dress</a> which I love more than that blog post would have you believe). Although I knew what I was going for on the horizontal plane with this fabric I didn't think to account for the spacing of the vertical design, so the pattern motif on the back skirt is haphazardly aligned (plus I'm realising now looking at the pictures the floral design is uneven at the hem too - so I didn't even get the horizontals quite right! Eep).<br />
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My pattern cutting was not as accurate as it should be, as it was tough managing great quantities of this drapey and stretchy knit and trying not to let the weight of it affect what I was able to cut on the table. I also made the mistake one of forgetting to alter the armscye from sleeveless to sleeved, but it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. <br />
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The pattern calls for 5/8" seam allowances even though it's intended for a knit - I ended up using 3/8" in most seams except for bindings. It was very easy to make up but for a better result I should have used my walking foot on the neckline binding and on the hem of the inside skirt edge. Only after my twin needle stitching got a bit gathered did I bother to install the walking foot to help smooth things out for the outer skirt side hem as it's more visible, and I made sure to use it for the sleeve and skirt hem.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">In a continuation of my border pattern woes I also couldn't get the sleeves quite balanced; I wanted to make a feature of the vertical design but didn't have enough fabric for them to be evenly centred. Oh well, it's not like anyone can ever see me from both sides at once!</span></div>
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I didn't particularly enjoy making this if I'm honest. I think being disappointed with my pattern matching and cutting from the outset put me off, but I'm glad I experimented with using my high bust measurement as this has definitely produced a better fit. I often have gaping and too much space over my shoulders and have noticed this as a feature of most of the garments that I wore during Me-Made May, so I'm glad I've worked out how to fix it!<br />
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However I think I would make this pattern again, as it's a nice basic and will be quicker and easier now I have the adjustments sorted, especially if I make it in a solid fabric! I felt really good wearing this for photos and out for an evening of short films at Bafta the other night, although this clingy fabric does mean I need to be feeling pretty body confident to wear it!<br />
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What are your favourite wrap dress patterns? What is the secret to success with border prints?!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-80899825978903616892018-06-03T12:25:00.002+01:002018-06-03T12:59:15.805+01:00Popover Colette Negroni in Linen Plaid<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's always a desire of mine to take beautiful on-location photos of a new me-made garment when we go on holiday. Trouble is, I'm always too busy holiday-ing to actually do it. Then, when we finally get the opportunity, it's not even me who gets to pose in an exotic location!<br />
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It may not be immediately obvious, but these photos were shot in Japan. We'd been cycling round the island of Teshima, which is a short hop away from the more famous Naoshima, where we'd been enjoying some art. It was a little bit off-season when we went, and mid-week too, so unfortunately a lot of the 'art houses' where artists had taken over derelict locations over the island and created art installations were unfortunately closed, but the <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/teshima-artmuseum.html" target="_blank">Teshima Art Museum</a> (which was incredible) was open, as was the <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/teshima-yokoohouse.html" target="_blank">Yokoo house</a> (some cool features but the painting style not to my taste at all).<br />
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If you're a fan of modern art and are in Japan, Naoshima is a must and Teshima is worth checking out if you have time. Go at the weekend, or if you can't - just aim to spend a couple of hours there (there are only two ferries back to Naoshima and if you go for the later one you'll have too much time on your hands), rent an electric bike and make the Art Museum your first stop as it is a very special experience. Cycling around the rest of the island is pretty cool too - it's a lot more rural than Naoshima and has rice paddies and birds of prey everywhere! Anyway the reason we have this random boatyard as a backdrop is because we were early for our ferry and had an hour to kill.<br />
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Enough about the location, you're here for the sewing, right? So, this is a modified <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/negroni" target="_blank">Colette Negroni</a>, with a popover placket. After <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/04/freesewing-simon-shirt-fun-experiment.html" target="_blank">trying the method out on the Simon Shirt </a>I knew I needed something with a little more ease (to make the actual "popping over" easier), but wasn't sure how I was going to manage the convertible collar/ placket intersection.<br />
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In all honesty I'm not sure I really did it in the most elegant way, and I had completely omitted the facing to create the front on the fold and placket but then realised in process that I needed something to anchor the convertible collar to the placket so had to create a mini-facing on the fly. I don't have construction photos of this, but basically I traced off the original facing pieces but curved them in so they're much shorter and connect to the placket halfway down on the inside, then handstitched it to the placket to secure.<br />
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The placket is also probably a bit wide - I decided in this plaid the placket looked weird being too skinny and decided to make it wider on a whim. I was actually a bit gutted when I realised this would mean such a wide flat space at centre front - funny how making that adjustment didn't compute in my brain to the effect on actual neckline, but actually I think it looks fine. I had tried to match up the plaids too but didn't bargain on the placket folding screwing up the grid spacing so the vertical lines are way off - but at least the horizontal lines match. Next time I think I'd do it on the bias for interest (as I did with the back yoke), but I felt it would look cleaner to try and pattern match.<br />
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The wide placket also means the buttons don't quite secure the top corner, which wants to curl up at the edge, and I'll be adding a tiny nylon popper to hold that in place. The shirt doesn't really look right with the placket undone with it being so wide (and having the improvised facings sewn on afterwards) but that's OK, being in a darker colour it suits cooler weather and being done all the way up.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">After all the little challenges in making, another thing that has happened since after the shirt's first wash is that the cuffs have frayed quite badly. The fabric is a linen (from Brixton's wonderful Simply Fabrics, as are the nut buttons) and I must have just trimmed the seam allowances too close! I think some store-bought navy binding oversewn around the cuff edges will have to be my fix as I'm not in the mood sew new cuffs - I'm not even sure if I have enough fabric left! </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Anyway I'm happy to have finally gifted this, and completed one of my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/01/my-makenine-and-top-5-sewing-goals-for.html" target="_blank">Make Nine</a>! </span></div>
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Are you good at getting glamorous location shots of your new makes? Or are you like me, full of good intentions but too busy trying to stick to your sightseeing itinerary? </div>
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I'll leave you with some photos of Angus contemplating a bird of prey (hawk?) resting on a lamppost. </div>
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NorseOtter xx</div>
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-80255996577079805422018-06-02T12:51:00.000+01:002018-06-02T12:51:44.999+01:00Me Made May: Recap and Reinvigorated Sewjo!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hello!<br />
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How was your Me-Made May? This is the first time I've participated, and I have to say while I found the daily photos a bit of a pain to get at times (daily photos are not compulsory but they were part of <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.com/2018/05/my-belated-me-made-may-18-pledge.html" target="_blank">my own personal challenge</a>) this also meant that I became a bit of an ambassador for the campaign (if that's what it is?) as I kept having to explain to friends and colleagues why I needed their help to take a picture of me - not just being vain, honest!<br />
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In terms of the clothes themselves I didn't set any specific limits, but as the month went on and I found the time to get out all the summer stuff that had been packed away I decided to see if I could go a whole month without repeats. This meant that I was forced to wear things that I wasn't that comfortable wearing all day, and made me consider why.<br />
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With a lot of the dresses I realised that, while I had managed to successfully do an FBA, often I had gaping necklines that made me feel sloppy or made the garment move and slide on me during wear. This is definitely a fit issue I'll be looking into for future makes - I'm going to experiment with using my upper bust measurement in future to see if that makes a difference.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkcnKTwFhE6KFjVvUODf9dLYJlIc_YHdsuhpQQeH3OQN5CY6xznF8MB-S-IYobtnLd3k6eH1ZzPe3LVg5JTkES5S9HnGZAo4LTEWj1EBljq9WoCnlGE12_QgMUExQ0pNs2x_MwpW8331W/s1600/Tweak+for+Fit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkcnKTwFhE6KFjVvUODf9dLYJlIc_YHdsuhpQQeH3OQN5CY6xznF8MB-S-IYobtnLd3k6eH1ZzPe3LVg5JTkES5S9HnGZAo4LTEWj1EBljq9WoCnlGE12_QgMUExQ0pNs2x_MwpW8331W/s640/Tweak+for+Fit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are all the garments that I will either make small tweaks for fit as they are or will make changes to the pattern for future versions. Top row all need their waistbands bringing up and in, middle row all need the fit at upper bust worked on, and bottom row the t-shirt needs more space for my beefy biceps, and as those the cropped sweater in the middle image (plus an FBA), and while I'm having fun in the dungarees in the last image for future versions I will experiment with bringing in at the waist for a more '40s look. </td></tr>
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<br />Some of the stuff I wore I decided just wasn't well-made enough for me to feel good in it anymore; and that's OK. I have worn these things loads and learned a lot in making them. Some of them are decent enough to give away, others I will look at refashioning and those with lots of yardage I might repurpose for experimenting with muslins while I work out some fit issues.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkym-2aAqZgRWC3EdMhLh3_J3fl-Mat8W4dDZCBufyi0dJhkE4v8Tqc9VWlZDEKfYHAiqzRU-0tcCF92cDZQn50hik0jvsuruGl_J1hjHOve99-m8DW4-bu_91ibcPIGxnj7t9DQzzvUaT/s1600/Donate+or+Scrap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkym-2aAqZgRWC3EdMhLh3_J3fl-Mat8W4dDZCBufyi0dJhkE4v8Tqc9VWlZDEKfYHAiqzRU-0tcCF92cDZQn50hik0jvsuruGl_J1hjHOve99-m8DW4-bu_91ibcPIGxnj7t9DQzzvUaT/s640/Donate+or+Scrap.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is my scrap/ donate collage. Top left: I'm donating the skirt - the print isn't me anymore and I think someone else will have fun with it. Top right: I'm keeping the dungarees but the cropped top underneath doesn't fit and rides up. Bottom left: Love this dress but the fabric is really bobbly, will look to address any fit issues then will re-make and scrap the old fabric and salvage the zip. Bottom right: the pile of clothes I didn't manage to wear during #memademay! Not getting rid of all these, but will donate the red skirt that matches the crop top as it's too tight over the hips, and will donate the yellow dress as this was a wearable muslin for the Megan dress that still ended up having fit issues. Also donating the boucle Delphine skirt - it's looking a bit ratty too and is big at the waist but I think someone else might have fun sprucing it up.</td></tr>
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<br />Sadly some of the stuff I really love has just got a bit ratty; either through lots of wear or through cheap materials. I plan to harvest what notions I can from these garments and re-use the fabric to make some woven bowls/ rag rugs as per <a href="http://blog.megannielsen.com/2018/04/scrap-storage-bowls-and-baskets/" target="_blank">this Megan Nielsen tutorial</a> or something similar. I haven't made any of these yet, but I have some balls of braided scraps waiting to be sewn up that I found it very therapeutic to braid, for those times when you want to be creative but don't have the energy to challenge your brain, or just want to have busy hands while watching TV.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESkSIg3lX_rHlHUfXQkhWkqecj0tl-JUZjEuC5r4MBvFsxl1pC2b0lleOiNkriVy2pAC1oUv0OG6-G6-RYIOf5qP-IKH6h9Pq_9LuvrkFQBoxwqKrjAD04RmYh9ZwrbOGQSTCre7-9UfF/s1600/Refashion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="396" data-original-width="1200" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESkSIg3lX_rHlHUfXQkhWkqecj0tl-JUZjEuC5r4MBvFsxl1pC2b0lleOiNkriVy2pAC1oUv0OG6-G6-RYIOf5qP-IKH6h9Pq_9LuvrkFQBoxwqKrjAD04RmYh9ZwrbOGQSTCre7-9UfF/s640/Refashion.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are all getting refashioned! I love the fabric for all of these, but in the first dress the fit is off, the second I'm not keen on the style or the contrast shirred waist, and the third was always a disaster as it was just a terrible pattern! </td></tr>
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<br />This brings me back to my blog; it's great having a blog so I have a memory of all of the things I've made, even if I do then decide to give them away, refashion them, or repurpose the fabric. It's great to have a record, and to learn from looking back!<br />
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How this has informed my making going forward (other than addressing that fit issue!) is to try and focus on spending time on making things I really want to wear. This sounds obvious, but quite often I make things out of a sense of duty to fulfil a previous plan or justify a pattern or fabric purchase that maybe I'm just not that into anymore.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3npjCjrKtyvQkAKivsLtYhWrSl6Ih209QoDVytOl4icPfT2u2xtHvSUpDe6cvBYUrqJ1M_qqIQWmbwvhzyWRzUEOPqDQCJ6D32LSXbcNWkMUma-QPcl1w9JeeyPan_PoR1Y-KZMg8MaF/s1600/Success.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3npjCjrKtyvQkAKivsLtYhWrSl6Ih209QoDVytOl4icPfT2u2xtHvSUpDe6cvBYUrqJ1M_qqIQWmbwvhzyWRzUEOPqDQCJ6D32LSXbcNWkMUma-QPcl1w9JeeyPan_PoR1Y-KZMg8MaF/s640/Success.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are the garments I enjoyed wearing most; shirts and shirtdresses (Melilot and Kalle), jeans, cropped trousers and culottes (Lander, Flint, Ginger, Safran, Winslow), and By Hand London dresses (Anna, Elisalex) that are feminine but modern in their aesthetic</td></tr>
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<br />The things I've made that I've loved the most (and made loads of repet versions) are patterns that have really appealed and grabbed me - the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern" target="_blank">Gingers</a>, <a href="http://shop.truebias.com/product/lander-pant-short" target="_blank">Landers</a>, <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/29-melilot-shirt-pattern.html" target="_blank">Melilots</a>, <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern" target="_blank">Kalles</a>, <a href="https://megannielsen.com/products/flint" target="_blank">Flints</a>, <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/winslow-culottes/" target="_blank">Winslows</a>, <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/anna-dress" target="_blank">Annas</a>, <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/elisalex-dress" target="_blank">Elisalexs</a>. I may not have "needed" these; but they've made me feel excited to make and made me feel current in what I wear. So I'm also going to give myself the freedom to be creative and follow my heart when it comes to fabric and pattern purchasing. Sewing becomes a chore when I'm slavishly following a plan, and I start to feel uninspired and disengaged and not take much pleasure from what I'm making.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTRlAfjef0QqWzKXEAOdDW2_CL5NBeCEH4OgAwsC4SI3Zp1vnsObdy68miFc4PVnRodveZBO8PCRy2K_c87Jn_AH39VDZEFoEhcOAfbld6DGV6toKOOkFmZHcgScC6F22FzYmGOezqZbhu/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-06-02+at+11.57.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="578" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTRlAfjef0QqWzKXEAOdDW2_CL5NBeCEH4OgAwsC4SI3Zp1vnsObdy68miFc4PVnRodveZBO8PCRy2K_c87Jn_AH39VDZEFoEhcOAfbld6DGV6toKOOkFmZHcgScC6F22FzYmGOezqZbhu/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-06-02+at+11.57.20.png" width="396" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everything I didn't get a chance to wear: 6 skirts, 6 dresses (or 7 if you include the one I just found hidden in my stash waiting for a refashion), 2 tops and a pair of trousers</td></tr>
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I may have enough clothing - in fact more than enough - as there have been me-mades that I didn't even get the opportunity to wear this month. Rather than feeling guilty or burdened by this, I'm going to use this as the impetus I need to embrace my creativity and not hold onto things that are holding this back. I have plans to do this sustainably and be more mindful in my making going forward, but I'm not going to channel making energy into projects that don't inspire me!<br />
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How was your Me Made May? I found it both inspiring and a chance to reflect and refresh my attitude towards making. Thanks <a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/2018/04/me-made-may-18-sign-up-here.html" target="_blank">Zoe for making it happen</a>, and to everyone who took part!<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-38084220279863561452018-05-19T11:54:00.001+01:002018-05-19T11:54:09.130+01:00My First Japanese Sewing Book Project - #SewingLeftovers Culottes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I may have mentioned in a recent post that I went to Japan, and that I did the cliched thing of buying a new suitcase to carry back all my goodies. Well, several of the more bulky goodies ended up being sewing books. It was seriously hard to narrow down what I wanted when out bookshopping; there was a lot of very charmingly photographed stuff I wanted just because I like the images, some books that focused in incredible pattern geometry, and lots of great casual stylish books. I fell hard for the latter camp and bought five, three of which are actually quite similar - they all feature a duster coat, tunic dress and pull on linen pants for example. But, I do not care. I love them all and justified my purchases by asking myself if there were two unique patterns I would make in each book.<br />
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I felt quite smug when the first thing I made when I got back from Japan (and still in the malaise of jetlag) was a pair of culottes from <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2017/08/08/new-releases-july-and-august-2017/" target="_blank">Blouse, Pants, One Piece</a>. I made version B of the culottes; there is also version F which is just below knee-length and has pockets. Both culottes have the same back piece with lines for the length you need for the different views. I decided on view B to keep it simple, as finding your pattern pieces on the sheet (which is printed all in black and white and overlaid a thousand ways!) is actually enough of a headache without wrapping my jetjagged brain around even more pattern pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCcsDl_Jk0Re__BmQd3_YMbKRXTew1DkT4v3STvFzirJ-v9sM5zVGuNKkljZAx24rrdyrd8a7cvVxNEbQxKkn-s0Q-cJPNsyoRbe5fJSxOM4xgEgyAj_N7JqePadJmRgkgcvaD3vqFyg-/s1600/IMG_20180408_135736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCcsDl_Jk0Re__BmQd3_YMbKRXTew1DkT4v3STvFzirJ-v9sM5zVGuNKkljZAx24rrdyrd8a7cvVxNEbQxKkn-s0Q-cJPNsyoRbe5fJSxOM4xgEgyAj_N7JqePadJmRgkgcvaD3vqFyg-/s640/IMG_20180408_135736.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The instruction illustrations are pretty good, but I decided to write in pencil what I thought they made just to have an at-a-glance guide. I used <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/japanese-sewing-terminology-a-list-of-translated-terms/" target="_blank">this brilliant resource from Japanese Sewing Books</a> to decipher the pattern pieces after I'd traced them and make sure I knew which was the front and which the back leg! I also used the Google Translate app every now and then, drawing Japanese characters for the first time in my life clumsily into my smartphone.<br />
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So, while the making was in fact quite simple (and no fitting, hooray!) my brain definitely had a little challenge while working in translation, but I found it pretty fun. And if I can make it work jetlagged, the rest of the patterns will be a breeze, right?!<br />
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The only slight surprise I had with these culottes is that I made them out of leftover fabric from my <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/gertie-shirtwaist-dress.html" target="_blank">Gertie Shirtwaist Dress</a> and I didn't have quite enough for the full length, so I shortened the pattern by about 9cm. And funnily enough, that length looks like the book's photo - so these must be pretty much full length if made as drafted (unless I have very short legs? I'm 5 ft 5 for reference).<br />
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Wearing them, they are super fun. I thought they might be a bit clownish, but I think the fact they're voluminous enough to mimic a skirt helps guide the look into more sophisticated territory. The cotton is more structured than the linen they're meant to be made up in, and I'm annoyed I didn't get my centre front double pleats quite perfect - that was one part of the illustrations I winged without bothering to fully translate I'm afraid. And, if I'm completely honest I do wish I had pockets. And that maybe I'd made the elastic a little tighter (although it will be easy enough to adjust later if I decide). But my brain was so broken, I craved adventure, but also simplicity!<br />
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Overall, for a #sewingleftovers wearable muslin pattern translated from another language I'm pretty pleased. More fabric out of the cupboard and on my body, and experiment fulfilled and the joy of using things up!<br />
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FYI I also bought (all links to reviews from <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/" target="_blank">Japanese Sewing Books </a>blog - so useful!): <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2018/03/01/atelier-to-nani-iros-sewing-closet-book-review-and-flip-through-video/" target="_blank">Atelier To Nani Iro</a>, <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2014/06/24/book-review-clean-and-natural/" target="_blank">Clean and Natural</a>, Shirts, and <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2015/10/22/new-releases-october-2015/" target="_blank">Shareable Wardrobe</a>. The last was kind of purely for the styling and photography, but I am tempted to make a bit of an avant-garde style departure! There is a particularly cute jumpsuit I'm willing to take a gamble on...<br />
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PS if you're in Japan and looking for books go to <a href="http://real.tsite.jp/daikanyama/english/" target="_blank">Tsutaya Books in Daikanyama</a> (Tokyo) if you get a chance (there are other branches but this one is so lovely). I followed <a href="https://tomatoesandjasmine.wordpress.com/2013/10/28/where-to-buy-sewing-knitting-books-in-tokyo-and-a-tour-of-marunouchi/" target="_blank">this blog</a> for the recommendation and it was my favourite bookshop - so beautiful - very architecturally interesting from the outside and inside each section beautifully curated and styled with an exhibition for each area of interest. The sewing book section wasn't huge but was comprehensive enough for me to spend an hour or so browsing and choosing - it's difficult to browse books from the spine when the format is quite uniform and the titles are all in a different language! Tsutaya also do tax free over a certain amount which Maruzen (also recommended in the blog and worth a visit) don't; they also had a decent selection but the bookshop near Tokyo Station was big and well stocked but a less charming atmosphere - you could visit Tsutaya and not buy anything and still enjoy the experience, but in Maruzen not so much.<br />
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I'll leave you with some goofy out-takes.<br />
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NorseOtter xx<br />
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<br />NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-32386941855619805272018-05-02T21:11:00.001+01:002018-05-02T21:11:11.227+01:00My (belated) Me Made May '18 Pledge<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfU0cIQXf9YGAFrtEMxefLt9G3Dy5Q029f1K1WqvHm9coBRXNsnSa2zuYP2gFKHpWstun0fFzx9-wc4-6lbg1lFymJtj21SUqnzMchyphenhyphenpAMyWevlB8JbjeL68Zq7QcjiMVcfHjjQaWto1ff/s400/IMG_20180502_144350933.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BiRxM6rB7Ko/?taken-by=norseotter" target="_blank">MMMay18 Day 2 = Deer and Doe Melilot Shirt + Helen's Closet Winslow Culottes</a></td></tr>
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><b>'I, Elinor of @norseotter, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '18. I endeavour to wear every item of handmade clothing I can (within reason) during May 2018 and capture a me-made outfit photo every day'</b></i><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">I've been aware of Me Made May (<a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/2018/04/me-made-may-18-sign-up-here.html" target="_blank">begun by the refreshingly frank and inspirational So Zo</a>) since I began sewing but have never before been able to focus on how I could meaningfully get involved; in the first couple of years it was because I didn't have enough handmade stuff to wear, and in the last couple of years I've had plenty but couldn't think how to make it a challenge as I love wearing what I make all the time! Now I've decided this will be the year to give it a go and see what I learn! As you can see, I've kind of begun before officially signing up! It's the taking part that counts right?</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">I've decided to make my challenge photo-oriented because for me the hardest thing about sewing and trying to maintain a blog is getting pictures in a timely way. I have both extremes of the problem; sometimes I have a build-up of me-mades and not enough time to capture photos, but once I get caught up I'm not producing "content" fast enough as I don't have as much time to sew as I'd like or my projects are proving trickier than expected. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXbghbCf1bScjZFm5Ti7HGnfOS38cNmoYjtvXH11oHGBaTAobf8kF4f8UL7C9s-UKwHSUOICAAdr-cIr0dV8LpviPUTugSN9AtBkzkRSN5l4B7ZSOSYxbwVzbjnFUap4VRfbnKgO036Jtc/s1600/IMG_20180501_222222401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXbghbCf1bScjZFm5Ti7HGnfOS38cNmoYjtvXH11oHGBaTAobf8kF4f8UL7C9s-UKwHSUOICAAdr-cIr0dV8LpviPUTugSN9AtBkzkRSN5l4B7ZSOSYxbwVzbjnFUap4VRfbnKgO036Jtc/s400/IMG_20180501_222222401.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BiP_WBzBYdh/?taken-by=norseotter" target="_blank">#MMMay18 Day 1 = Gertie Sews Vintage Casual Two-Piece</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><br />To fit into the Me Made May ethos I will challenge myself with the pure awkwardness of trying to capture a daily outfit photo (it <i>is </i>tough if you're an introvert!), and for the learning portion of the challenge I hope to get a good overview of what I wear and what works for me, what I'm holding onto for sentimental reasons, and what is just worn out at this point!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">As the seasons have been so all over the place in the UK over the past few months I expect to need all my summer and winter clothes at once, so at least I'll be able to get a comprehensive overview too. By the end of the month I aim to have piles of keep, donate, repair/ refashion and scrap clothing - which can include RTW as well. I'm posting daily on my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/norseotter/" target="_blank">@norseotter instagram</a> and plan to do a round-up post of which garments end up in which pile at the end, plus I'm sure loads of new making plans!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">I'm looking forward to getting stuck into the challenge and being inspired by all your makes too!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">NorseOtter xx</span><br />
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NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5770880660837119897.post-30174820197953749892018-04-29T18:49:00.000+01:002018-04-29T18:49:09.339+01:00Freesewing Simon Shirt - A Fun Experiment in Vlisco Leftovers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Sites like </span><a href="https://freesewing.org/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">freesewing.org</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"> (and, of course, the lovely online sewing community) are what makes the internet magic. If you haven't already come across freesewing.org, it's an open source pattern drafting site for (mainly) men's patterns, each custom-sized to the measurements you upload. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">I dove straight in with the </span><a href="https://freesewing.org/patterns/simon" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Simon shirt</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"> as the base for the popover shirt that <a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/my-makenine-and-top-5-sewing-goals-for.html" target="_blank">Angus requested</a> for Christmas after I dismissed the </span><a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/negroni" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Negroni</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"> as too much hard work to adapt. There are many, many measurements you have to upload to freesewing.org, so worth blocking out a bit of time and patience to get this bit right, but you can select to only upload the measurements you need for the pattern you're working on at the time, and there are thorough (and often witty!) instructions to guide you through. Once you enter all the info, then customise all the elements you wish, the pattern is created for you with a helpful comparison image so you can check whether you've accidentally gone off-piste anywhere before printing. I definitely had to double-check a couple of my measurements after referring to this, so it's a really useful feature. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVik5OXuorM2EhRWYPe8sGQBYbEHx-lOyFarNZcLX7f6rPI5zhxUkOuQyzyCDz22SKQgbbJBiCRrOxPGMpDKG5nLCnyBgT2JiPAn07WYiPPQ3bMHkO02-t8ElQZxpdm2LUOtk_1nNC7DuQ/s1600/IMG_2210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVik5OXuorM2EhRWYPe8sGQBYbEHx-lOyFarNZcLX7f6rPI5zhxUkOuQyzyCDz22SKQgbbJBiCRrOxPGMpDKG5nLCnyBgT2JiPAn07WYiPPQ3bMHkO02-t8ElQZxpdm2LUOtk_1nNC7DuQ/s640/IMG_2210.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Another great feature, if a bit over my head for my current level of shirtmaking ability, is the minute level to which you can customise your design. There is a lot of information to help guide you through every choice you make – e.g. the style of cuff, hem, how ease in each area etc. The only thing I would criticise is that you can't save step-by-step as you're building your pattern (which you can when entering your measurements) and so if you accidentally click off the page you have to go back and enter all the details again from scratch (and there are a lot!). I speak from experience as I did this a couple of times and somehow ended up selecting a tiny 6.25mm seam allowance which I definitely didn't intend to do! However, after getting over my panic when I realised (after cutting of course) it hasn't actually been that much of an issue, and has even saved time that would have been spent trimming seams otherwise. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioo5iSFsYt8KmBpNDnRiUNZz0d5C6wbMK1N_EKwT0jf5Z0dOrOprsQ48y4HQB8KEaGES7_Qxrc_U3cmtlMqYBenmkXJxks1bbZHMCZHWTjCZ0d8XGwDZhlATWkdpaNjIB1YgitnULnvSI8/s1600/IMG_2216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioo5iSFsYt8KmBpNDnRiUNZz0d5C6wbMK1N_EKwT0jf5Z0dOrOprsQ48y4HQB8KEaGES7_Qxrc_U3cmtlMqYBenmkXJxks1bbZHMCZHWTjCZ0d8XGwDZhlATWkdpaNjIB1YgitnULnvSI8/s640/IMG_2216.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"><br class="kix-line-break" /></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"><br class="kix-line-break" /></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">The only thing I had to do for myself is draft the popover placket, which I did following </span><a href="https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/article/popover-top/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">this Craftsy tutorial</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">. It has turned out alright, but I think I put it in back to front and so have a tiny seam allowance where I've caught the bottom edge of the placket. I didn't find the sewing instructions very clear in the tutorial, so switched to the </span><a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/sewing-a-tunic-or-popover-placket-tutorial/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Kalle instructions</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"> (which I got for my birthday but haven't made yet) but as the approach to the placket in each is a little different, and both intended for female shirts, I think I got confused. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vvgEqOwhl-cuqpMbRb2n4VlXl6Yjcq7buX5cLVX3eYVKG9TRYZvevCKVXCfcmq9MLGCDEKEq-MidZIX1wgFrWA3W4VKbkZfP-fs-RcHs3d_OGVtpMaVduSwvUgB03ASqdsVnlmwH3znr/s1600/IMG_2213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vvgEqOwhl-cuqpMbRb2n4VlXl6Yjcq7buX5cLVX3eYVKG9TRYZvevCKVXCfcmq9MLGCDEKEq-MidZIX1wgFrWA3W4VKbkZfP-fs-RcHs3d_OGVtpMaVduSwvUgB03ASqdsVnlmwH3znr/s640/IMG_2213.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ85zye4ukQtQaqKzjrkbGGfxyv3-h86PBX1YEYv6UD6wQwCnUrdxlutMVsHVXzUH7Dop9_LGUyYKo17W1tEKJQKL4B5dw_bMDBy_1aef-LCUpownMXzNCSkxWt6Ve1vD3EuXQgLJtC3yi/s1600/IMG_2211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ85zye4ukQtQaqKzjrkbGGfxyv3-h86PBX1YEYv6UD6wQwCnUrdxlutMVsHVXzUH7Dop9_LGUyYKo17W1tEKJQKL4B5dw_bMDBy_1aef-LCUpownMXzNCSkxWt6Ve1vD3EuXQgLJtC3yi/s640/IMG_2211.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"><br class="kix-line-break" /></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">You may recognise this fabric from the </span><a href="http://norseotter.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/vlisco-crocs-for-anguss-birthday-negroni.html" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="-webkit-text-decoration-skip: none; background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">Negroni I made Angus</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;"> a couple of years back. I always wanted to make myself something from the remnants of this 6-yard piece of Vlisco wax print, but felt like it was too much of a statement print and too strongly associated with being Angus's birthday fabric. Hooray for finally using it and #sewingleftovers! This time I didn't worry about pattern matching at all, but I did have a few issues here and there remembering which was the right and wrong side of the fabric (which I'm sure contributed to my placket confusion).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkZrKaD6feWV-D0WTi6phCV93uybIkysrPzASqtULCcpO3Q19_-OQtF_rFiHAabXQCtRQbcqX6mE6nOgsgOpPKpsGFCrNH_DrXZZklVSpSv13cduh6kyMJEdIegW80T2ECYezuulccsPe/s1600/IMG_2222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkZrKaD6feWV-D0WTi6phCV93uybIkysrPzASqtULCcpO3Q19_-OQtF_rFiHAabXQCtRQbcqX6mE6nOgsgOpPKpsGFCrNH_DrXZZklVSpSv13cduh6kyMJEdIegW80T2ECYezuulccsPe/s640/IMG_2222.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8wYSucud-eMIZFlk4TCzxWKUfHPbkNIFeey51c4hum5MLiC6yxQYjA8MMe0NNN3K70a7qKi8o4W3imzXj1SN9QgEA9zR96P93QiVEcFd2G-t9dxPx_NtFfma8V8FbBDLwQy3p64MbxmH/s1600/IMG_2224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8wYSucud-eMIZFlk4TCzxWKUfHPbkNIFeey51c4hum5MLiC6yxQYjA8MMe0NNN3K70a7qKi8o4W3imzXj1SN9QgEA9zR96P93QiVEcFd2G-t9dxPx_NtFfma8V8FbBDLwQy3p64MbxmH/s640/IMG_2224.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UiVhp8c9yT9wV5FMVAchjqg_gtUebrNdkgtd3p0FUKzgodEw1g679TVwWWJ0cnQNx5rzxFj8jdQjNbFFad77947pVX8LqRRA_MME1SaYoXOBKMmIUBOQeCFruZa7_fw6DQhJd5wFUr57/s1600/IMG_2226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UiVhp8c9yT9wV5FMVAchjqg_gtUebrNdkgtd3p0FUKzgodEw1g679TVwWWJ0cnQNx5rzxFj8jdQjNbFFad77947pVX8LqRRA_MME1SaYoXOBKMmIUBOQeCFruZa7_fw6DQhJd5wFUr57/s640/IMG_2226.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">While I had fun making this shirt, trying to adapt it further did end up proving to be a bit of a headache and I think actually this style of shirt is too form-fitting for a popover. I also accidentally ended up choosing doubled-over cuffs by mistake (which I’ve secured with a button to go through both layers here rather than using cufflinks) which add an unintentional flamboyance to the look. The popover shirt ended up a bit tight at the neck and shoulders too, but this may have been a result of the changes I made in that area. What with the collar needing to be permanently open, statement cuffs and tight fit this has ended up looking like a 70s tunic. Not a bad look, but not quite what I was going for! I did end up going with another pattern to create the shirt that Angus requested, but that will be for another post. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8dQ4cReFC96PHeWVz3tkC_UW8T9tZ9I_hpNRM2_zSG9zspJL2XVHa6zWlL1ttSft9SpcKNBIcERoYio2VGW20dV0RcCO7yh4K8mt4_zfhDDJc87AiVIb9pc9RswP9nYlWwU59E2nS9vy/s1600/IMG_2217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8dQ4cReFC96PHeWVz3tkC_UW8T9tZ9I_hpNRM2_zSG9zspJL2XVHa6zWlL1ttSft9SpcKNBIcERoYio2VGW20dV0RcCO7yh4K8mt4_zfhDDJc87AiVIb9pc9RswP9nYlWwU59E2nS9vy/s640/IMG_2217.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZQwAlGZGW8e7CIJaIm0BNBPNTDDRW6lXCMijOs9_92hSJU4oSB63zDubvqvOaNmbn5n9XX0jcBfeh0l0Ci89fufwttlppYWzMrdQVVo2IuyiGN_FLAbr_2gAHQ0yAM-MPlnEReHE0NFUy/s1600/IMG_2221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZQwAlGZGW8e7CIJaIm0BNBPNTDDRW6lXCMijOs9_92hSJU4oSB63zDubvqvOaNmbn5n9XX0jcBfeh0l0Ci89fufwttlppYWzMrdQVVo2IuyiGN_FLAbr_2gAHQ0yAM-MPlnEReHE0NFUy/s640/IMG_2221.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; white-space: pre;">I would however definitely recommend giving the Simon shirt a go - I think next time I’ll go with the basic version though and not incorporate any of my own design el</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">ements to make my life a bit simpler! What do you think? Have you tried freesewing or any other custom-draft pattern platforms before?</span></div>
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NorseOtterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11929167900824909422noreply@blogger.com0